Art of War to Art of Living - Chapter 9

Chapter 9 THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE TOUR “Travelling - it leaves you speechless, and then turns you into a storyteller.” — Ibn Battuta A couple of days later Xiao Ming was at the buffet table, when she noticed a new group of tourists head into the dining room. From the looks of them, they seemed American. Her guess was further confirmed when the gathering took a table next to hers, within earshot. In spite of her best efforts not to, Xiao Ming couldn’t help overhearing their conversation. They seemed to be planning a short trip around Delhi. Xiao Ming felt that she was on the cusp of achieving something out of ordinary after her expedition to the Buddhist shrines. Not that she had attained enlightenment - there are no quick fix solutions on this path, unless a person is born blessed with Divine qualities, but that was something she did not believe in. She always operated on the premise of logic and demanded proof for everything. The only exceptions in her life were her attachment to her mother. Despite being a strong atheist, her mother prayed fervidly to celestial objects especially when Xiao Ming fell ill as child or when her father was suffering from exacerbated bouts of COPD. Xiao Ming was hopeful that Anav would be in Delhi to guide her further. Unfortunately, the Chennai man remained elusive and silent. And this disappointed her and she felt lonely for the first time since her trip had begun. After her customary workout in the hotel gym and a swim in the pool she appeared absolutely fit and radiant. She was browsing through some books on Buddha in the hotel lobby and was struck by a quote by Buddha, “If you want to be strong, learn to enjoy being alone.” As she was processing this mentally, someone tapped on her shoulder. Xiao Ming turned around, not sure who it might be. She was absolutely wide-eyed and literally screamed and brought down the house, when she saw who it was. “My goodness, Jane! Is it really you? What a pleasant surprise!” Xiao Ming could barely control herself. Jane too was joyous and they hugged each. Jane had been Xiao Ming’s roommate at university. They had shared a wonderful rapport during their student days. The two maintained contact for a while, but in the sands of time the contact slowly ebbed. In unison they were to say, “What the hell are you doing in India?” Jane laughed, “Our strategic partner and your adversary.” “Ha! You use them, we established contacts ages ago,” was Xiao Ming’s repartee. Xiao Ming learnt that Jane and her three friends had been travelling across the swathes of India and the final expedition was a trip covering Delhi, Jaipur and Agra - popularly called the Golden Triangle circuit. Jane introduced Xiao Ming to her partner Michael and another couple. Soon the American and the Chinese were busy catching up with each other. The American was stupefied to hear about Xiao Ming’s travails and the transformation that had ensued. By the time Xiao Ming completed her tale it was pretty late in the evening. Meanwhile Jane’s friends and her partner had dropped by at the restaurant. “Well, Jane I feel cheated,” Xiao Ming concluded. “Mike, she will join us for the trip. And please do not say no,” Jane called out to Michael. The statement surprised Xiao Ming too. Before she could react, Jane hushed her with a stern look. Michael paused for a while and then acceded to the request. *************** The next morning the American quartet and the Chinese woman undertook a voyage across the capital city under the cover of salubrious weather conditions. “The romance of the city is as old as the classic colossus, The Mahabharata, during which period the town was known as Indraprastha. This is where the Pandavas are believed to have established their kingdom during the times of Lord Krishna,” the guide apprised the tourists. “Oh, you mean the Lord of Krishna consciousness - ISKON,” one of the American backpackers was to say much to Xiao Ming’s surprise. She was a person who scarcely believed in Gods. The usual image of Americans was that of a people totally ignorant of anything other than their reality. “My granddad who lived in India for several years had narrated stories of Hindu gods, especially those of the scion of Ayodhya, Rama and of Krishna who was the arbiter between two warring cousins,” Jane said. The guide was indisputably impressed. “Indians rejoice in their religion quite like we celebrate our democracy,” Jane added. “You don’t believe in any supernatural power, am I right, Xiao Ming?” Jane asked her friend. “I am not so sure any longer. Maybe I’m in search of one. Perhaps I will discover one by the time my Indian odyssey terminates,” the Chinese added. “My grandad always said that there’s a rich tapestry in Hindu religion. During his diplomatic and journalistic sojourn in India he covered several important events in India. He always spoke with wonder about the pluralistic culture of India, a culture which embraces various thoughts and religions, a country where innumerable religions flourish. He had a ring side view of the failed socialism in India, rise of the extreme right wing. He always said that words like secularism and pseudo-secularism were frequently bandied about in India,” Jane added, as she realised that she had got carried away. Her knowledge of India received unabashed admiration from the others in the pack, including the guide, driver and the attendant. The guide quickly referred to a small notebook, where he seemed to be scribbling down a few important points to be flaunted in presence of his next bunch of tourists. Xiao Ming had to take the conversation to Buddhism and Buddha. “What did your grandfather think of Buddha and Buddhism, Jane?” “Well … as per my grandfather’s book India Unravelled, Buddhism shone like a star in the firmament of religions, before it was lost in the quagmire of failings which were exhibited by Brahmanism and left the shores of the land of its birth.” Jane relayed as a matter of fact. “Over the centuries, eight more cities mushroomed adjacent to Indraprastha. These were Lal Kot, Siri, Dinpanah, Quila Rai Pithora, Ferozabad, Jahanpanah, Tughlaqabad and Shahjahanabad,” the guide announced, wanting to take charge from the American lady. The tourists were savouring the capital and its glorious past. Singular among the dynasties that made Delhi their capital were the Tughlaqs, the Khiljis and the Mughals, each adding to make it a melting pot of diverse cultures and heritages. “You see this city is a window to India, which helps to discover an entire new country, brimful of magical stories and wondrous experiences,” spoke the guide with gusto, as he felt obliged to throw in his two bits of historical knowledge to match Jane’s knowledge of India. “And respected guests, you will thoroughly enjoy lip-tickling Mughalai cuisine. It is spicy and hot. And you will relish the succulent meat,” he added. The Americans and Chinese were on trade turf war, but that did not deter an animated conversation on a variety of subjects over dinner at Tipples. The discussion ranged from ancient China in particular on Taoism, Daoism, the military strategist Sun Tzu, Communism, thereafter market Communism and Buddhism to American capitalism and the enormous wealth in the USA, among others. The quartet from America was dumb-struck hearing about the Virtual Buddy app and the confiscation under the Great Fire Wall Policy pursued by the Chinese Communist Party. Xiao Ming’s mind immediately rewound to the dinnertime discussions at the same table two weeks back. She had been discussing Buddha, the app and Xuan Zang with Anav and Ramesh. “Xiao Ming, you appear to be a much happier person among the opulent Americans and meditative in the company of the new Indian friends. I am feeling sleepy, will catch up later,” Lu Yao texted. It was late in Shenzhen. ******************** The following day there were several pit stops at prominent tourist spots across the city. Whenever the guide faltered, Jane quoted from India Unravelled. As shadows lengthened and the weather turned cold, the tippers spent time at the tranquil and sublime samadhi of the apostle of peace, Mahatma Gandhi. Despite the crowd, silence pervaded Rajghat. This was the Kushinagar moment for Xiao Ming, while the Americans reminisced about Martin Luther King, Jr. and John F. Kennedy. The evening was spent watching the son et lumiere at Red Fort before retiring to their opulent hotel. The show was riveting, as it traced Delhi's tumultuous history across the centuries. While watching the resplendent historical show, Xiao Ming’s fingers made a feeble attempt to speak with Anav. After all, Anav had promised … and how long was she to wait for him? Xiao Ming looked at the skies of Delhi hoping to see the magical shooting star and was wondering as to what her boyfriend would be doing in Shenzhen. The group of five watched the show with amazement as Bahadur Shah Zafar was incarcerated in Burma. Xiao Ming too felt imprisoned with her thoughts. She was still grappling with the failed promise of Anav. “If you know the enemy and know yourself, you need not fear the result of a hundred battles,” Xiao Ming comforted herself as she read Sun Tzu’s quote. Back in the hotel Xiao Ming checked her mobile and realised that there had been a few missed calls from Anav. Since it was past midnight, she decided it would be appropriate to return the call only on the following day. *************** At the crack of dawn, the next morning the Americans and Xiao Ming left the hotel to travel by Shatabdi Express to the Pink City, Jaipur. Xiao Ming was now getting familiar with Indian trains. Some painfully slow and others faster. They were no match to the trains back home and the stench and dirty bathrooms piqued her. But she enjoyed viewing the hinterland, where several high-rise buildings and industrial townships had mushroomed. Jaipur is among the better planned cities of India, located in the semi-desert lands of Rajasthan. The very edifice of Jaipur reminds one of the tastes of the Rajputs and the royal families. The tourists began the voyage of Jaipur by visiting the Amber Fort. Amber Fort is situated in Amer, a bijou town with an area of four-square kilometres, at a distance of eleven kilometres from Jaipur. Perched high on a hillock it is the principal tourist attraction in Jaipur. The next day the guests visited Agra and Taj Mahal. Agra is quintessentially mentioned in the epic Mahabharata, where it was called Agrevaṇa, meaning the border of the forest. The tourists dropped anchor at Taj Mahal, the mausoleum of Shah Jahan's favourite wife - Mumtaz Mahal and one of the New Seven Wonders of the world. “’Travelling - it leaves you speechless, and then turns you into a storyteller’, wrote Ibn Battuta,” Jane quoted from her grandfather’s book. Xiao Ming as usual preferred a running commentary via a podcast. Mysticism and Meditation The history of Rajputs is peppered with valour and sacrifice. But they also entered into matrimonial alliances with the Moghuls and several of them were prominent ministers in Moghul regime. At the subterranean level, the Bhakti and the Sufi movements acted as a bulwark of the subcontinent. The population was choked by the dominance of the pernicious caste system and the orthodoxy of religion. People found their Gods becoming distant and through simple folklore, devotion and excellent strain of music they reached out to the Divine power. They rediscovered the inherent power of yoga, mysticism and meditation. The Bhakti and the Sufi movements drew people in droves. All this intrigued Xiao Ming. Akbar’s philosophy and new religion of Din-E-Illahi which encompassed tenets of Islam, Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Christianity and even Zoroastrianism was a welcome addition. Akbar’s dalliance with the Sufi movement was through Salim Sheik Chisti, after whom he named his son as Salim. His policy of matrimonial alliances with Rajput rulers to fortify his kingdom was another successful strategy. But he was positively inclined towards Sufism and patronised the music of Tansen, which is said to have transported him to ecstasy. Xiao Ming could establish some connect of her Buddhist adventure with the mysticism of Akbar. Rana Pratap of Chittorgarh, whose empire flourished up to Udaipur was drawn to yoga and performed a hundred of rounds of Sun Salutations to maintain a robust mind and body. If one looks at the battle outfit of Rana Pratap, it was extremely heavy, weighing almost forty kilograms. This implies the physical structure would have been robust. He was brave and was also a tutee of Tulsi Das. He meditated on the name of Lord Ram. Tulsi Das himself had had a glimpse of Hanumanji and Lord Ram, Lakshman and Goddess Sita. He wrote the epic Ramayana which was appreciated by stock individuals for its simple language. Rana Pratap was encouraged by Tulsidas to fulfil the responsibility of protecting the Rajputana kingdoms against Mughal invasion. If one looks at the structure of Chittorgarh and the way it has been built, it displays enormous foresight on part of Rajput kings who had fortified their kingdoms against repeated attacks. Rana Pratap fought the Moghuls with hardihood and pluck. An intrigued Xiao Ming pondered on the point. She thought only Sun Tzu and the Chinese were accomplished in the art of warfare. Jauhar was committed by Rajput women when Allauddin Khilji, besotted by his blind lust love for Padmavati, attacked the kingdom. The Rajput women were extremely devoted to the Divine power and could slay the enemy or even take their lives. It was neither hara-kiri nor suicide. It was a matter of honour. The Story of Meera Bai of Merta Meera Bai was devoted to Lord Krishna and was in a perpetual divine trance. Her mind and body were not for Ranaji but for the Universal Lord, the preserver of the world, Lord Krishna ... There are references in Tulsidas’ Ramayan that Rana Pratap and Akbar were adversaries but had met Meera Bai and both had a spiritual inkling. These nuggets of Indian history intermingled with mythology opened a new aperture for Xiao Ming to understand Indian cultural heritage. One of the Americans remarked, “As a child, I was a voracious reader and would pore over passages and obsess over faraway lands. And when I started travelling did I realize that the quote ‘it’s better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times’ is spot-on.” Xiao Ming was still awaiting a message from Anav. Somehow, they had missed each other’s calls. Apparently, he had a hectic schedule, because his text messages were never more than a few words long - ‘will get back to you’, ‘out with the fam’ and so on. Though he had invited her to join him on his visit to the Golden Temple, Amritsar, but she had no precise details of the trip. There was palpable silence from Chennai and after a long time, Xiao Ming seemed timorous and unsure about her next course of action. She was desirous of continuing the expedition of a seeker. She examined her mind. Was it not oscillating from the path? “It is an arduous task to be continuously in pursuit of spirituality or simply put being a seeker. The human mind is singularly a monkey mind, always slipping towards materialistic pleasures quite easily,” she thought to herself. To the complex questions that cannonaded the chambers of her mind, Xiao Ming was looking for simple answers. She felt jostled and was caught in the spiral of impatience and irritation. “On the path of spirituality what a seeker envisages is to drop the baggage or hangovers of the past or even that which we keep accruing daily. However, through the quotidian practice of dhyan, that is meditation and observation of the breath the mind becomes crystalline and pure. Humans begin to live in the present moment and become as light as a feather,” Ramesh had proffered two weeks back, and both Anav and Xiao Ming had been sceptical. However, her readings of Xuan Zang’s adventures, Deepak Chopra’s Buddha and some other literature about being in the moment in addition to her Shravasti and Kushinagar moments made Xiao Ming realise the import of Ramesh’s arguments. She was not sure whether she was in search of Buddhism, peace, the quintessential truth or on a voyage of self-discovery. But one thing she was sure about. It was sheer serendipity that she encountered Anav on the flight to India, an event that had propelled her in the right direction. She reminded herself that Anav and Ramesh could not be crutches on this journey. Anav was similar to her in the manner that he thought, a non-believer, high achiever, but facing certain existential questions like her. When I look into the mirror, I may see the images of my Indian friends, but they cannot be the fulcrum on this landmark expedition she thought to herself. But I am still to untie the Gordian knots and break free to overcome the lack. I had demanded proof. Was I authentically aiming to be a Buddhist, or discovering a Buddha in myself or attempting to be a seeker? Was I in search of spiritual answers to the demons in my mind or eventually going to go back to living ostentatiously? Xiao Ming texted Lu Yao. “Victorious warriors win first and then go to war, while the defeated warriors go to war first and then seek to win,” came the prompt reply from Lu Yao, as he quoted Sun Tzu. This spurred the beautiful Chinese woman to annihilate the demons of capitulation and timorousness and sealed her decision to foray to yet another place in India. Xiao Ming quoted Buddha in yet another message to Lu Yao. “There is nothing so disobedient as an undisciplined mind, and there is nothing so obedient as a disciplined mind”. These words resonated in the cranny corners of her mind as she worked out the next leg of her trip. After all, as a well-heeled entrepreneur who had dotted the landscape of the corporate world, she had visited several parts of the world. Xiao Ming returned from a good swim and was wondering what to do about dinner when she realised that it was almost time that the Americans would be leaving for the airport. She quickly dressed and rushed down to the reception. She got there in time to catch the group as they were checking-out. “Hey Xiao Ming, wonderful spending time with you,” Jane said as she hugged Xiao Ming tightly. Xiao Ming felt a perceptible sense of loss as Jane left. The two women had rekindled the bond they’d shared during their university days. Jane’s knowledge about India helped Xiao Ming to appreciate this ancient land better.