8. The Majesty of the Fairy Queen

8. The Majesty of the Fairy Queen The Gatiman Express, plying between New Delhi and Jhansi -clocking a speed of 150 kmph- is touted as the fasted train in the country. The mind resonates with images of Usain Bolt scorching the tracks. About a year back, T-18, christened Vande Bharat connected New Delhi and the ancient town of Varanasi at a breathtaking pace of 130 kpmh. These epoch-making events are precursors to the Bullet Train that is yet to make a foray in the Indian Railways’ landscape. But as the estimable thinker and novelist Victor Hugo wrote, “No one can stop an idea whose time has come.” IR has always been a customer centric organisation and over the years metamorphosed itself to etch multitudinous memories in the cranny corners of our minds, be it summer vacation trips or school excursions. It has introduced transformational services to attract foreign tourists and propertied Indians to unearth India, travelling on luxury trains. The opulent Fairy Queen is yet another jewel in the crown. The Fairy Queen, also known as the East Indian Railway Nr. 22, is an 1855-built steam locomotive, which was refurbished by the Loco Works Perambur, Chennai in 1997 and housed at the Rewari Railway Heritage Museum. The locomotive is steeped in history. It was constructed by Kitson, Thompson and Hewitson at Leeds, England, in the year 1855 and was despatched to Kolkata, then known as Calcutta. Upon arrival, it was given a fleet number “22” by its owner, the East Indian Railway Company and was named 1895. Initially, this locomotive was deployed to haul light mail trains in West Bengal, operating between Howrah and Raniganj. During the Mutiny of 1857 it hauled the armies of the company to quell the attempted coup d’etat. After playing an exigent role, the locomotive was consigned to line construction duty in Bihar, where it served until 1909. Thereafter the Fairy Queen spent the next 34 years on a pedestal outside Howrah station in isolation and certainly must have wondered its fate and future. In the year 1943, the locomotive was moved to the Railway Zonal Training School at Chandausi, in Uttar Pradesh, where it served as an object of curiosity for several of the probationers. A number of similar locomotives were built around the same time as the Fairy Queen. Some were supplied by Kitson, Thompson and Hewitson and others were built by Stothert, Slaughter and Company of Bristol. It is noteworthy to mention that Stothert-built Express, has been preserved at the Jamalpur Locomotive Workshop, in Bihar, since 1901. The inscription on the Express' pedestal claims that it was the first locomotive operate between Howrah and Raniganj and was numbered “21” by the honchos of East India Company. This locomotive too was resuscitated the by Loco Works Perambur, making it fit for running in 201. It a contender for the title of the world's oldest operating steam locomotive. Express EIR 21 currently runs on different divisions of Southern Railway on weekends. The Fairy Queen is a coal-fired engine capable generating a maximum speed of 40 kmph. The Indian government bestowed heritage status on the the Fairy Queen in 1972, rendering it as a national treasure. It was revived from the obscure environs of Chandausi and provided a special spot in the newly built National Rail Museum at Chanakyapuri, in New Delhi. The stupendous success of the Palace on Wheels triggered the imagination of railway officials to exploit the inherent potential of this locomotive. It was restored to its full working order in 1997, in preparation for its first mainline journey in 88 years! The two-day excursion on the menu has the train plying 143 kilometres from New Delhi to Alwar in Rajasthan, with passengers spending the night at the Sariska Tiger Reserve. The steely inanimate beast transports humans to encounter the animate one! The locomotive hauls a carriage capable of transporting 60 passengers. A service car holding a generator and compressor and a pantry car make up the rest of the convoy. The operation was repeated between December and February in the following years. It was certified by the Guinness Book of Records in 1998 as the world's oldest steam locomotive undertaking regular operation. The following year, the train received the National Tourism Award for executing a pioneering and innovative tourism project from Atal Bihari Vajpayee, the then Prime Minister of India. Palace on Wheels was the trail blazer, and soon several luxury trains have mushroomed in the country. The Fairy Queen has successfully attracted tourists from across India and abroad and earned precious revenue for the country and has put Alwar and the Sariska Tiger Sanctuary on the tourist map which is no mean feat. “It is always sad to leave a place to which one knows one will never return. Such are the melancholies du voyage: perhaps they are one of the most rewarding things about travelling,” writes the eminent traveller Gustave Flaubert. 9. The Gandhi circuit Trains Do we recall the iconic blockbuster film Gandhi? The movie was a biopic on the Mahatma and went on to win several Oscars. Ben Kingsley enacted the role of Gandhiji, while Rohani Hattangadi essayed Kasturba’s character. The movie was dexterously canned by the eminent film maker Sir Richard Attenborough. There is a sequence in the movie, perhaps etched forever in the alcoves of cine goers’ minds – the ejection of Gandhiji from a train in South Africa. The year was May 1893, when Mohan Das Karamchand Gandhi was travelling to Pretoria, high-priced first class coach ticket in hand. An enraged white man objected to the presence of a dark skinned coolie in the first-class carriage. As a result Gandhiji was directed to move to the van compartment at the rear end of the train. Mohan Das Gandhi who was in possession of a valid first-class ticket absolutely ignored the commandment. He did not budge and refused to detrain from the estimable first class coach. Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi was recompensed for this stoutly act of defiance and was evicted from the train at Pietermaritzburg. The frail man, blessed with a resolute and robust mind shivered through the winter night in the waiting room of the station. Ruminating over the insult heaped upon him, he made the momentous decision to stay on in South Africa to combat racial discrimination against Indians. This epoch making incident became the bedrock of his unique version of resistance through non-violence, what came to be known as Satyagraha. To commemorate his contributions there stands a bronze statue of Gandhiji in Church Street, right in the heart of the city. Mahatma Gandhi inspired Nelson Mandela to take up cudgels against apartheid in his homeland and eventually secured freedom for the coloured community. Gopal Krishna Gokhale realised the inherent potential of Gandhiji and was of the opinion that this short statured man had the requisite fire in his belly to liberate the country from the clutches of colonialism. He advised him to ‘discover the authentic India’ by traversing the length and breadth of the country travelling third class by train, rather than pursuing a career in the legal arena. Gokhale further advised Gandhiji to attend Congress conclaves which was then dominated by city-bred, estimable figures who were far removed from reality. Such patriots could never espouse the cause of the Harijans, peasants, women and other people in distress under foreign yoke. As a tribute to Mahatma Gandhi’s campaign against the British, Indian Railways planned a series of consequential and unfading train journeys. A train was flagged off from Chandigarh on April 9, 2015 called the Mahatma Gandhi Circuit Train, which took tourists on board to see various places associated with the life and times of Mahatma Gandhi. The landscape of this indelible journey marked the places that are singular with the Mahatma’s struggle against the foreign yoke. The train traversed through important junction points such as Ahmedabad, Rajkot, Porbander, Bhavnagar and Surat in his home state of Gujarat. These places were the bedrock of Ahimsa and Satyagraha. The 8 days and 9 nights journey attracted widespread coverage among historians, Gandhians and those nostalgic about India’s freedom struggle. It is quite commendable that Indian Railways rose to the occasion to think of and execute this novel idea. To fuel further interest in the life and times of Gandhiji, Indian Railways authorised IRCTC to operate tourist packages from Jabalpur and Madurai along the Gandhi circuit, in 2015. The grand design of this portentous wanderlust was to mark 100 years of the return of Mahatma Gandhi to India from South Africa. Sabarmati was chosen as the starting point for the Gandhi Special tourist train. The train was flagged off on 17 June, 2017 to commemorate the centenary day of the Sabarmati Ashram. The train touched many important destinations such as Wardha, Motihari, Bettiah, Gaya, Varanasi and Allahabad. This special train chugged on the wheels for a period of 10 days, till 26 June, 2017. The Indian Railways is the life line of the nation and the engine of growth on nation’s march towards balanced development. Simultaneously it plays a pivotal role in promoting tourism in the country, recalling several iconic figures. Special trains have been run periodically to spread the message of Swami Vivekananda, Rabindranath Tagore, Mahatma Gandhi and Saint Teresa. Any interested persons can easily obtain information and keep up to date by checking out the website of the Indian Railways (www.indianrailways.gov.in) and IRCTC (www.irctc.co.in). Not only would visitors to these websites be surprised by the range of activities, interested persons could also tie up for new and fruitful ventures in the future. As noted, American author Marianne Wiggins says, “What thrills me about trains is not their size or their equipment but the fact that they are moving, that they embody a connection with unseen places.” 10. The Golden Triangle Tour A group of Americans alighted from an Air France aircraft at the Indira Gandhi International airport in the wee hours of a chilly Delhi morning. After their passage through the rigmarole of customs check, they were received by officials of the IRCTC. One of the overseas travellers remarked, “When I was a child, I used to read books voraciously. I would pore over passages and obsess over faraway lands. Only when I started travelling did I realize what the quote ‘it’s better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times’ is spot-on.” They were a quartet, consisting of two couples. A prepossessing lady chipped in, “The gladdest moment in human life is a departure into unknown lands.” Her well-built and clean shaven partner added that the quote was by the celebrated trouper Richard Burton. In response, the IRCTC official remarked, “This adventure crisscrossing the Golden Triangle will resonate in your minds forever.” The couples were put up in an upmarket hotel in Lutyens’ Delhi and the following morning they undertook a voyage across the capital city under the cover of salubrious weather conditions. The romance of the city is as old as the classic colossus, The Mahabharata, when the town was known as Indraprastha. This is where the Pandavas are believed to have established their kingdom. Over the centuries, eight more cities mushroomed adjacent to Indraprastha. These were Lal Kot, Siri, Dinpanah, Quila Rai Pithora, Ferozabad, Jahanpanah, Tughlaqabad and Shahjahanabad. Singular among the dynasties that made Delhi their capital were the Tughlaqs, the Khiljis and the Mughals, each adding to make it a melting pot of diverse cultures and heritages. This city is a window to India, which helps to discover an entire new country, brimful of magical stories and wondrous experiences. The Americans were enthralled visiting the Laxmi Narayan Temple, the fabled India Gate, the Parliament House, the Qutab Minar (where they tried to interlace themselves with the imposing and robust Ashokan Pillar), the ruins of Purana Qila, the majestic Humayun's Tomb with its neatly laid gardens, followed by the observatory of Jantar Mantar. The excursionists were amazed at the history of several centuries; they soaked various contours, twists and turns at their resplendent hotel that evening over dinner. The next pit stop, on the following day was the tour of the exalted Masjid-i Jahān-Numā, popularly known as the Jama Masjid of Delhi. This is one of the largest mosques in India. It was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, between 1644 and 1656 at a princely price of 1 million rupees, and was inaugurated by an Imam from Bukhara, present-day Uzbekistan. This was followed by visiting the Red Fort which was the epicentre of Mughal dynasty, the Mutiny and the famous Red Fort trials of INA prisoners; it is from the ramparts of Red Fort that the Prime Minister of India addresses the nation every Independence Day. It is located in the centre of Delhi and houses a number of museums. As shadows lengthened and the weather turned cold the tippers spent time at the tranquil and sublime samadhi of Mahatma Gandhi. The evening was spent watching the son et lumiere at Red Fort before retiring to their opulent hotel. At the crack of dawn, the globetrotters were escorted by the IRTC officials to traverse 309 kms by Shatabdi Express to the Pink City, Jaipur. Jaipur is among the better planned cities of India, located in the semi-desert lands of Rajasthan. The city which was once the capital of the royalty is the capital city of Rajasthan. The very edifice of Jaipur resembles the taste of the Rajputs and the royal families. The tourists began the voyage of Jaipur by visiting the Amber Fort. Amber Fort is situated in Amer, a bijou town with an area of 4km2, at a distance of 11kms from Jaipur. Perched high on a hillock it is the principal tourist attraction in Jaipur. The capital of Rajasthan was coated pink a century ago in honour of a visiting Prince and ever since, it has retained this colour. It was assiduously built by Maharaja Jai Singh, the notable astronomer. This city is around 260 years old. The tourists visited the Jantar Mantar (and recollected the images of the one seen at Delhi) and Hawa Mahal. They were to spend the night at a grandiose hotel in Jaipur, streaming in the statuettes and nuggets of ancient, medieval and modern Indian history alongside the acclaimed architecture. The sightseers travelled by Shatabdi Express covering 241 kms between Jaipur and Agra Fort where the globetrotters were housed at an estimable hotel and were soon to witness glorious history. The name of the city is derived from the village called Sikri. This was the place where Sheikh Salim lived and spread the gospel of Sufism. Emperor Akbar's son Jahangir was born at the village of Sikri in 1569 and the year Akbar began construction of Agra Fort and propagation of the religion and way of life called Din-i- Illahi (which borrowed ideas and thoughts from various faiths like Jainism, Buddhism, Islam, Hinduism and Christianity) to commemorate the Sheikh who had predicted the birth of his son. Following Jahangir's second birthday, Akbar began the construction of a walled city and an imperial palace here. The city came to be known as Fatehpur Sikri or The City of Victory, to commemorate conquest of `Gujarat in 1573. The guests subsequently visited Agra and Taj Mahal. Agra is quintessentially mentioned in the epic Mahabharata, where it was called Agrevaṇa, meaning The Border of the Forest. The peregrination dropped anchor at Taj Mahal, the mausoleum of Shah Jahan's favourite wife - Mumtaz Mahal and one of the New Seven Wonders of the world. Taj Mahal is an ivory-white marble mausoleum on the south bank of the Yamuna River in the Indian city of Agra. The monument was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan. This mausoleum also houses the tomb of Shah Jahan, the builder. “Indeed this is poetry carved in stone,” remarked the tourists as they retired for the day to the confines of their hotel and motored their way back to Delhi the next day to the airport to catch their flight back to Boston, their minds subsumed with exotic Indian history. Travelling – it leaves you speechless, and then turns you into a storyteller. – Ibn Battuta. 11. The Buddhist Circuit Tours Gautama Buddha]who lived between 563 to 480 BC was born Siddhartha to King Suddhodhana and Mayadevi of the Sakya dynasty. He was married to Yasodhara who bore a son named Rahula. Siddhartha faced a severe existential crisis, and eventually donned ochre robes and became a mendicant. Upon attaining enlightenment, he became a spiritual master and religious leader on whose teachings Buddhism was established. He was reverentially called The Buddha or The Enlightened One. Today Buddhism is practiced all over South-East Asia and is attracting droves of followers in search of peace. In particular, humans are getting attracted to the celebrated Vipassana breathing and meditation technique which provides succour to the distraught mind. There are some prominent Buddhist spots of paramount significance. These include Lumbini (in present day Nepal) where Buddha was born, Shravasti (in Uttar Pradesh near Gonda) where Buddha is said to have spent the last twenty-four years of his life meditating and cogitating while preaching the tenets of Buddhism, Sarnath near the ancient city of Benaras (also fabled for the Kashi Vishwanath Temple). It was at Sarnath that the Sakya Muni delivered his first sermon upon experiencing the pristine truth. The next place germane to Buddhism is Bodh Gaya where Siddhartha, the Sakhya Prince attained enlightenment. Finally is Kushinagar near Gorakhpur in Eastern Uttar Pradesh, where Buddha attained Mahaparinirvana (cast his mortal self and merged into eternity). A group of Buddhist back-packers arrived from Colombo at the Indira Gandhi International Airport as the sun sank in the Indian capital and the skies turned crimson red. The sightseers were received at the airport and escorted to a prominent hotel in Delhi. At the crack of dawn the following morning they departed from Lutyens’ Delhi by the Swarn Shatabdi Express for Lucknow, the City of Nawabs. Upon arrival at Lucknow the group was suitably snowed by the hospitality as the trippers travelled by a SUV to Shravasti. The tourists alighted from the confines of their SUV and contemplated the place where Buddha was said to have lived during the last twenty-four years of his life. They were subsumed with peace and jollity; all the cobwebs and demons in their mind annihilated. The logistics of the IRCTC were planned to the T. Soon the tourists traversed to Nauthanva, a distance of 220 kms, by the Panvel-Gorakhpur Express. Nauthanva is the gateway to Nepal. After the mandatory customs clearance and police-check, the globetrotters had a meal and visited Sahet and Mahet. Then began the enchanting drive to Lumbini, nestled in the hills; Lumbini was a part of Kapilvastu, the erstwhile kingdom of King Suddhodhana. The guests stayed at a glitzy hotel at Lumbini and walked around for several kilometres paying obeisance at various Buddhist shrines till they reached the spot where Buddha is believed by the devout to have arrived on planet Earth. Here they meditated at the shrine for a reasonable period of time, slipping into sync with the ethereal atmosphere. IRCTC has harnessed skills in managing transportation and other logistics quite efficiently. Next the tourists saw the spectacle of an ancient Ashokan pillar and prayed at the Maya Devi temple. Later they drove down to Kushinagar, spending the night at a modest though well furnished hotel. At the crack of dawn the sightseers proceeded to visit the Rambhar Stupa and Mahaparinirvana temple. To this day (centuries have elapsed) one can experience profound silence and amazing vibrations at these Buddhist shrines. With much reluctance the Sri Lankan Buddhists departed from Kushinagar to Gorakhpur and boarded the Lucknow-Patliputra Express enroute to Patna, the capital city of Bihar, a 255 km journey. Upon their arrival at Patna, after checking-in into a prestigious hotel, the pilgrims headed to Bodhgaya and saw the Mahabodhi Temple built to the east of the sacred tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. The temple is a majestic structure, 17 feet high on a base 5 feet square, and consists of a soaring pyramidal tower surmounted by a stupa. The Vajrasana or Diamond Throne lying between the Bodhi Tree and the temple marks the actual spot where Buddha received illumination. A gilded Buddha smiles upon the visitors from a niche in the wall of the temple, and his footsteps are carved in stone which hold flower offerings from the devout. Astonishing peace pervades the atmosphere as though lending credence to the legend that Buddha attained insight at this very spot. The minds of the pilgrims were filled with serenity and calmness as they travelled by the Lichchavi Express from Patna to Benares covering 227 kms. That evening they checked into the estimable Radisson Hotel in Varanasi. Varanasi is known for its pluralistic culture, famously termed as ‘Ganga-Jamuni Tehzeeb’. The pilgrims paid obeisance at the Kashi Vishwanath temple followed by darshan at the Kaal Bhairav and Sankat Mochan Hanuman temples. Thereafter they travelled to Sarnath where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon. Sarnath is around 10 km from Varanasi and houses numerous Buddhist shrines which include the famous Dhamekh Stupa, the seat of the holy 'Buddha'. They also visited the ruins of Dharmarajika Stupa and Mulagandhakuti Temple, where Lord Buddha is said to have rested and meditated while in Sarnath. Later on the pilgrims were amazed looking at the Ashoka Pillar, built by Emperor Ashoka. The Lion Capital atop this pillar is part of the National Emblem of India and stands apart for its excellent artistry and carvings. A day filled with several peregrinations was rounded off after witnessing the majestic spectacle of the Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat on the banks of the Ganges. After a hectic day, most travellers were weary and hit the sack. Two mettlesome tourists got up early the next morning, as their friends snatched a few extra winks of sleep, and were enthralled by the boat ride on the Ganges. That afternoon the voyagers boarded the Vande Bharat Express, among the fastest trains in India and reached New Delhi by 11pm. The next day the group flew back to Colombo with misty eyes and fond memories. “Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment,” thus spake Lord Buddha. 12. Beyond the Vindhyas by Train It was an icy-cold January in Delhi that year, the year 1983. The citadels of power of the Congress Party had crumbled in undivided Andhra Pradesh and in Karnataka. The talismanic trouper who essayed the roles of several mythological figures, N.T. Rama Rao had assumed office in Andhra Pradesh and the cerebral and suave Rama Krishna Hegde had demolished the grand old party in Karnataka. People of North India woke from slumber to relearn their geography; to realise that south was not merely the land of “Madrasis” or “Idli and dosas”. Southern India is indicative of pristine and unalloyed Indian culture. Panoramic scenery that stuns the beholder, neatly decorated temples, some incredible monuments and a treasure of yogic techniques and Ayurvedic treatments; delicacies to tickle the most finicky taste buds conjure Mandrake like magic and provides the tripper with a robust menu card. A backpacker is left in a trance observing numerous historical ruins and swaying coconut trees. From the silvery backwaters of Alappuzha to the beaches of Kerala; the ancient city of Chennai dotted with several temples, the bustling tech-savvy cities of Hyderabad and Bangalore or the sublime Auroville and the tranquil Samadhi of Shri Aurobindo, the breathtaking coastline of Visakhapatnam and last but not the least, Tirupati, the abode of Lord Venkateswara; South India is a gateway to paradise. Temples There are around 30,000 ancient temples in South India! Verily, it is called the land of temples. Alongside temples are churches, synagogues and mosques. A land that is extremely pluralistic in nature. Studded with exemplar architecture, variety of sculptures and varied inscriptions, temples are the very soul of South India. For any a tipper, a visit to the Murugan temple, Meenakshi temple, Rameswaram, Tirupati, and Vivekananda Rock Temple among others is but natural. Backwaters The shimmering and sunny beaches, golden sands and palm fringed seashores and the backwaters attract globetrotters. Tourists, young and old throng Kovalam, Marina, Baga, Varkala and the backwaters of Alappuzha. Trippers luxuriate and carouse in the houseboats of Kerala. Wildlife Tourists make a beeline to see the majesty of the carnivorous species at the nineteen national parks and the four tiger reserves in South India which are populated with a rich and varied flora and fauna. The must visit parks for any wildlife enthusiast are Periyar, Bandipur, Idukki, and Eravikulam. The IRCTC has niche packages such as the Southern Marvel, Dakshin Bharat Yatra and the Chennai-Kanyakumari-Rameshwaram-Madurai Tour to attract the potential visitor. The Southern Marvel This tour is spread over 6 nights and 7 days and traverses destinations such as Mumbai, Madurai, Rameswaram and Kanyakumari. Pilgrims board train number 11043, and also travel the intermediate leg by train number 22621 from Rameswaram to Kanyakumari. In this enthralling package, the devout pay obeisance at the Meenakshi temple, the Gandhi Memorial, the Thiruparankundram Murugan Temple, the Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal, the Pazhamudircholai and the Alagar Kovil. Dakshin Bharat Yatra The trip spans 13 nights and 14 days. The itinerary also includes a visit to temples of singular importance such as the Ramanatha Swami Temple at Rameswaram, the Meenakshi temple at Madurai, Kovalam beach in Thiruvananthapuram, the Anantha Padmanabha Temple (also in Thiruvananthapuram) and the Ranganathaswamy Temple at Srirangapatna. In a breathtaking swoop the pilgrim criss-crosses three states of South India and is exposed to the heterogeneous culture, cuisine, heritage, architecture and beliefs of this prodigious part of South India. Chennai-Kanyakumari-Rameswaram-Madurai Tour This is an extraordinary tour spread over 4 nights and 5 days. Travellers visit Kumari Amman Temple, Triveni Sangam (the jaw dropping point to witness the confluence of the Bay of Bengal, the Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean where each water body has a distinctive shade of colour, a spectacle nonpareil ), the grandiose Vivekananda Rock Memorial, the Thiruvalluvar Statue, and the Mahatma Gandhi Memorial Mandapam, to name only a few important places. All these tourist and pilgrim packages span the major pilgrimage spots of South India and the devout make a beeline to visit these places of worship. The Lord of Seven Hills The landscape of Rayalaseema, a prominent geographical entity of Andhra Pradesh is truly blessed as it is dotted with numerous temples and spiritual centres which provide succour to the souls, and quenches the spiritual thirst of Masters, seekers, savants and stock individual alike. It is the darshan (a mere glimpse) of Lord Sri Venkateswara Swamy (or Lord Balaji as he is also known) that pilgrims pine for incessantly. The momentary satisfaction derived from the fleeting sighting of the Lord amidst humongous crowds intensifies the longing to see Him again and again. Man meets Divinity, where a thrill passes through the spine, throats get parched and eyes are moist after darshan. The temple town of Tirupati is in Chittoor district of Andhra Pradesh and the shrine is located on the lofty Tirumala Hill, nestled among the Seven Hills in the Eastern Ghats. Pilgrims traverse the journey either by road or literally climbing step by step. The history of Lord Venkateswara’s temple dates back over twelve centuries. The temple is indeed a jewel in the crown of ancient places of worship. It is authentically believed by devotees that the Lord bestows relief to the afflicted, provides an aperture of divine wisdom to the seeker, and bestows prosperity to the materialist. A visit to Tirupati and the surrounding holy shrines which include Kanipakam and Srikalahasti, provide singular spiritual satisfaction to devotees. “Once a year, go someplace you’ve never been before,” says His Holiness Dalai Lama. These are quintessentially significant words to live by. There is always something exciting about exploring a new place every year. It can be a new country, a new city, or can even be an interesting spot near one’s hometown. 13. Discovering Central India by Rail “I like trains. I like their rhythm, and I like the freedom of being suspended between two places, all anxieties of purpose taken care of: for this moment I know where I am going,” writes the prodigious Australian author Anna Funder. Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Khajuraho and Varanasi are cities which capture the ancient, medieval and modern periods of Indian culture, history and ethos. These cities cover the states of political Delhi, mystical Uttar Pradesh, valorous Rajasthan and vibrant Madhya Pradesh. Striking monuments and places of worship dot the landscape which fires the imagination of the backpacker. These populous states are miniature representations of the culture and heritage of India. Thus in order to witness the grandeur and charisma of India, it would be perspicacious for a tripper to hitch on to the bandwagon of the Central India Tour proffered by the IRCTC. The entire region is marked by wildlife sanctuaries, tribal habitats, opulent resorts and ancient pilgrimage sites. Without doubt, the Central India Tour offers to its visitors an assorted platter of attractions. Central India prides itself for housing in its midst the heritage capital of India. The architectural marvels located in the area fascinate Indian and international trippers alike who come in hordes to this part of the country. Central India travel packages enthral and engross sightseers when undertaken in its entirety. Prologue- Stay at Delhi Tourists are received by representatives of the IRCTC at Delhi, either at the airport or the railway station and are then transferred to an estimable hotel for an overnight stay. A sumptuous breakfast is followed by a city tour of New Delhi & Old Delhi. As per mythology the potentates of Hastinapur (now part of Delhi) were the Kaurava and Pandava princes. Thereafter several singular Hindu rulers left their stamp, such as emperors like Chandragupta Maurya, Ashoka, Harsha and those of the Gupta dynasty. There was a change of hands (and fortunes) as the new sovereigns from the Sultanate period took over followed by the Chauhans and then the Mughals until the city capitulated to the Britishers. It was then that Lutyens’ Delhi was established. So the city offers variegated colours and shades of heritage and is a repository of history, knowledge and culture. It is a veritable melting pot of India. Tourists cover the Birla Temple, India Gate, Parliament area, prominent Government buildings, Humayun's Tomb, the Qutab Minar, the Gandhi Memorial at Raj Ghat, the Chandni Chowk market, the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid, to name but a few sites. It is indeed a sojourn into history. The Valour of Rajasthan At the crack of the dawn, the globetrotters head to Delhi Cantonment Station to board the prestigious Shatabdi Express to the Pink City of Jaipur, the capital city of the state of Rajasthan. It evokes a distinct feeling of royalty among the visitors. The city was established in 1727, and has expanded far beyond what is known as the Old City or ‘Pink City’ for its resplendent trademark terracotta pink buildings. At the centre of its stately street grid, which is quintessentially Indian, stands the opulent, colonnaded City Palace complex. Upon arrival guests check in at an upmarket hotel. In the afternoon a meticulously planned sightseeing tour of Jaipur is organised by the officials of the IRCTC. The tour includes spots like City Palace, the Observatory (Jantar Mantar), the Albert Museum, the Hawa Mahal and shopping for the famous jewellery and objects made from camel leather. Jaipur to Agra Breakfast the next morning is a hearty affair. A typical Rajasthani breakfast is quite a regal affair, which every foodie must attempt. Some of the favourites offered by the chef include - Pyaaz Kachori, Bajra Roti and Lahsun Chutney, Kalmi Vada, Moong Dal Pakori, Methi Bajra Puri and Aloo Subzi. Travellers check out and depart for an excursion to Amber Fort (on elephant-back!) and thereafter motor down to Agra in the afternoon. There is a brief stop-over at the deserted capital of the Mughals, Fatehpur Sikri. Red sandstone buildings cluster at its centre. The Buland Darwaza is the entrance to the Jama Masjid mosque. In the vicinity is the marble tomb of Salim Chishti. The Diwan-E-Khas hall has exquisitely embellished central pillar. Jodha Bai’s Palace is an amalgam of Hindu and Mughal styles, next to the five-storeyed Panch Mahal which overlooks the site. Stay at Agra Breakfast at an upmarket hotel is followed by a leisurely walk in the market area where artefacts (exuding a magnetic charm of their own) are available. Despite having had a lip- smacking breakfast, several tourist gorge on golgappas. Thereafter the day is spent visiting the Agra Fort and the Sikandra Tomb. In the evening, one explores the prepossessing Taj Mahal. Agra to Khajuraho The trippers next day board the much-acclaimed Shatabdi Express from Agra to Jhansi and thereafter travel by road to Khajuraho. The Khajuraho group of monuments is a genus of Hindu and Jain temples in the Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh, about 175 kilometres southeast of Jhansi. These monuments have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temples are famous for their nagara-style architectural symbolism and their erotic sculpture. It is sheer delight to marvel at the structures – from the sensual and erotic to the sublime. The evening is spent watching the spectacular son- et-lumière, which traces the history and brings to life scintillating nuggets of the local lore. Ganga Beckons After chilling out the night at Khajuraho, the following morning guests are taken to the Ken River to watch the cascading waterfalls and to have a look at the ancient volcanic rocks. Thereafter, the sightseers board a flight to Varanasi. Varanasi is an ancient city in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, dating as far back as the 11th century B.C. and is considered the spiritual capital of India. The city draws Hindu pilgrims who bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges and also perform the last rites on the banks of the river. Along the city's winding streets are some 2,000 temples, including the iconic Kashi Vishwanath, the ‘Golden Temple’ dedicated to Lord Shiva. Visitors are taken to Sarnath where Gautama Buddha, upon attaining enlightenment delivered his first sermon and also to the Rishi Valley School, established by the philosopher Jiddu Krishnamurthy. The icing on the cake is to watch the pageant of Ganga Aarti on the banks of the Ganges. It is a breath taking ceremony which never fails to amaze those witnessing the spectacle. Back to Delhi The following afternoon, the travel-weary backpackers leave for New Delhi and are there by 11pm. They slowly depart with memories etched firmly in their minds. “What thrills me about trains is not their size or their equipment but the fact that they are moving, that they embody a connection between unseen places,” writes the talismanic author, Marianne Wiggins. 14. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway “The most important reason for going from one place to another is to see what’s in between, and they took great pleasure in doing just that,” are singular emotive words of the talismanic author Norton Juster. Do we recall the trouper Rajesh Khanna -without doubt the first superstar of Bollywood- crooning ‘Mere Sapno Ki Rani’ for the blockbuster film Aradhana? How many people are aware that the graphic sequence which left an indelible impression on cinema goers was canned on the renowned Darjeeling Hill Railway? Rajesh Khanna motoring on a jeep and the celebrated actress Sharmila Tagore reading a book on the Toy Train. Darjeeling is a quintessential hill station, nestled neatly in the eastern state of West Bengal. This quaint town perched at the foothills of Himalayas was once a protuberant summer resort for the British Raj elite. To this day the town remains the terminus of the much vaunted narrow gauge Darjeeling Himalayan Railway which was commissioned in the year 1881. Darjeeling is fabled for the distinctive black tea grown on humungous plantations which populate the landscape besides the sylvan surrounding slopes. The cyclorama of the town is the grandiose and gargantuan Mt. Kanchenjunga. ‘Kanchenjunga’ the alcoholic drink triggers the minds of a host of drinkers. But Kanchenjunga, the pristine, lofty and imposing mountain is one of the highest peaks in the world which dwarfs the remaining, standing tall at 8,586metres. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR), laid on a serpentine track, negotiating bends and sharp curves has earned the moniker ‘Toy Train’. It is a 610 mm narrow-gauge railway which links the 88 kms between the bustling towns of Siliguri and Darjeeling. This route is operated by the Indian Railways, and the exotic ladder commences the enthralling voyage at 100 m at Siliguri and rises to about 2,200 m at Darjeeling. The highest point of preferment is at Ghoom station located at 2,300 m. The town of Siliguri, where the peregrination of this beguiling railway route commences got connected with Kolkata (once upon a time Calcutta)) through the railway network way back in 1878, while the additional journey to Darjeeling required the deployment of tongas (horse-driven carts) besides the dust track. Based on the erudite recommendations of a high –powered committee appointed by Sir Ashley Eden, a British diplomat (after whom the celebrated Eden Gardens derives its name) work on the route began in the year 1879 and was completed by July 1881. The railway line became more manoeuvrable with the construction of four loops and zig-zags that made the ascent over the steep gradient more gradual. Commercially, the DHR, by 1909–1910, was a prodigious success as it began ferrying 1,74,000 passengers and 47,000 tons of freight traffic annually. Humans are a mere cipher in this vast cosmos and cannot combat nature. In 1897 the fury of nature impacted the railway system following a cataclysmic earthquake and left the railway line crippled. But soon DHR bounced back. The engineers of the railway constructed the Batasia Loop in 1919, which eased the ascent from Darjeeling. The DHR however faced competition from buses operating on the Hill Cart Road which took a shorter time than the railway to reach Darjeeling. The year was 1934 and the epicentre Pusa in Bihar, a calamitous earthquake struck vast plains of Eastern and North Eastern India. Mahatma Gandhi visited the state of Bihar and was to write that the Bihar earthquake was ‘providential retribution for India's failure to eradicate untouchability’. Several buildings in Darjeeling besides the railway system were destroyed. It is noteworthy to mention that this robust railway system that survived two major earthquakes played a pivotal role in organising supplies to the camps established around Ghoom and Darjeeling during the Second World War A majority of the trains which scorch the track are still powered by steam engines; though visages of modernisation have wormed their way as an occasional diesel engine is used to chug the Darjeeling Mail train. The railway is noteworthy for its signage located at key vantage points, such as Agony Point and Sensation Corner (a reminder of the era gone by). Yet another characteristic feature is the spirals on steep hills which provide breathtaking views of the valleys below. In 1951, the railway was acquired by the Government of India and eventually went on to become part of the North East Frontier Railway zone in 1952. In 1962, the railway was realigned at Siliguri and extended by nearly six kilometres to New Jalpaiguri (NJP) to cross the newly carved broad-gauge line. Unfortunately the railway line ceased operations for almost eighteen months during the Gorkhaland hostilities in the years1988 and 1989. In 1999, the Darjeeling line was recognized by UNESCO and placed on the World Heritage List with a caveat that steamed-hauled locomotives would continue to be used along the route. Despite the chequered history the DHR line has withstood vicissitudes in a brawny manner and is a bulbous tourist attraction. People continue to flock to travel by this train. “Our life is a constant journey, from birth to death. The landscape changes, the people change, our needs change, but the train keeps moving. Life is the train, not the station.” writes the inspirational Paulo Coelho. 15. Kalka- Simla, an Exotic Rail Journey “I listened, motionless and still, and as I mounted up the hill, the music in my heart I heard, long after it was heard no more,” captivating lines by the iconic poet William Wordsworth and a fitting description of the wondrous train journey from Kalka to Simla. Indian Railways proudly proclaim that it transports ‘an Australia’ everyday on its wheels, no mean feat! However these days airlines and roadways have built robust infrastructures and provide product, price, place and promotion (the 4 Ps of marketing), luring travellers away from the sedate pace of rail travel. Nevertheless, the narrative to unearth landscapes as a train motors through the serpentine bends on some steep, fascinating and enthralling routes in our vast country remains the domain and bulwark of the Indian Railways. A backpacker uncovers diverse landscapes while undertaking a rail journey. Steep mountain slopes, narrow valleys, dense jungles and wide seas are just some of the jewels waiting to be discovered as one chugs along the rail routes. The Gen X or Y perhaps are perhaps unaware of two momentous events which transpired at Simla. Aeons ago in the summer of 1945, it was at Simla that Lord Wavell, the Viceroy of India discussed the Cabinet Mission plan with various stake holders who were at the forefront of India’s struggle. Exactly 27 years later, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India and President Zulfikar Ali Bhutto of Pakistan inked the Simla pact on 2 July 1972, paving the way to end hostilities between the two warring and sparring nations. India had earlier vanquished Pakistan in December 1971 in a war that resulted in the creation of the new nation state of Bangladesh. This Queen of Hills served as the Summer Capital when Indians were the subjects of the British monarchy and was the seat of the estimable Railway Board. Today it houses the academy for the probationers of the Indian Audit and Accounts Service. A vacationer who cherishes a journey through picturesque valleys, up steep pathways and through foggy meadows, would certainly not be disappointed as he or she travels in the narrow gauge train on the Shivaliks from Kalka to Simla. This stretch from Kalka to Simla along with the little toy train, a legacy bequeathed by the British, has been declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. The train journey from Kalka to India’s erstwhile summer capital Simla at the crack of dawn is quintessential rail-travel on the hills of India. The erstwhile quaint town is today a hustling and bustling tourist spot, located in the north-western ranges of the Himalayas at an altitude of 2,213m. The toy train weaves its journey from Kalka, a town in its neighbouring state, Haryana and terminates at the enchanting Simla. The Kalka – Simla rail line is a narrow gauge railway which traverses a distance of 96km. This 96-km long railway track was constructed over 889 short to long bridges and passes through 102 tunnels in the foothills of the Himalayas; the longest tunnel is located at Barog. A Twist in the Tale – Barog Tunnel On this enchanting trip famished tourists break journey to savour delicious parathas and fried eggs, cutlets and piping hot tea or coffee in a restaurant at Barog. There is mystique and majesty attached to the place. Cool breeze wafts in and one can hear the sounds of chirping birds and a rivulet as the Sun plays hide and seek. The Barog Tunnel passes through the fissured sandstone and has a tragic tale associated with from during its construction. Colonel Barog, who was supervising the construction of Tunnel No. 33 committed the cardinal mistake of boring the tunnel from both (opposite) ends of the mountain, a strategy adopted to expedite construction. The crew was divided into two halves, and started the digging and blasting work for the tunnel from the opposite ends. The Colonel instructed the crew members to bore the tunnel and according to his calculations both the ends would intersect at the centre. He thereby envisioned a single tunnel in the amphitheatre of his mind. The workers kept on boring from either end, but did not meet even after crossing the centre of the mountain. After some time, the workers became restless and questioned the decisions taken by Colonel Barog. The Colonel too realized that on account of his miscalculations, the alignment of the tunnels had gone awry and the two ends of the tunnel did not meet. His miseries were compounded as the British government decided to levy a hefty fine on the Colonel for profligacy of public property and wealth. It was a double whammy for Colonel Barog as the Government took umbrage and the staff became hostile. In sheer despondency Colonel Barog snuffed his life through the barrel of his gun. On this picturesque path ply several trains including the Kalka-Simla Express, Himalayan Queen, and Shivalik Queen Express. The journey is enduringly enchanting at a slow pace as the train ascends the slope rhythmically through stations such as Dharampur, Solan, Kandaghat, Tara Devi, Barog, Salogra, Totu, and Summerhill to reach the summer capital. The journey, which snakes its way through imposing mountains leaves an indelible impression on the minds of the pilgrim. Silken and pristine mountains, breathtaking lakes, salubrious climate, and alluring greenery –Simla offers on the platter all that a tourist pines for. The breathtaking beauty of the city and the places in the vicinity never cease to leave the traveller spellbound. There is this magical quality in air which endears Simla to the visitor compelling them to visit time and again. There are around eighteen tourist spots which are habitually visited by sightseers. The more celebrated among them are the Summer Hills, the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies, Annandale, Jakhoo Hill and Temple, Tara Devi Temple, Chail (the Palace of Maharaja of Patiala), Gaiety Theatre and the Viceregal Lodge. Summer or winter, a stroll along Mall Road with a stop by for a hot cup of coffee is a must do. Come winter and Kufri tops the list of must-visits. Though tourists throng the Queen of Hills by road, rail and by air, the journey by rail through the thick forest cover and clouds floating through the coaches has an old world charm which leaves an ineffaceable impression on the febrile mind of the tipper. Thus seize every opportunity to visit Simla by rail for the amazing magical quality attached with the rail journey. “Trains are wonderful.... To travel by train is to see nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact, to see life.”- Agatha Christie

7. Golden Chariot Express- Explore the South in Style

7. Golden Chariot Express- Explore the South in Style Indian Railways (IR) is the lifeline of the nation, playing a singular role in facilitating a balanced and inclusive socio-economic development of the country. It is a gargantuan organisation, acting as a truss and moor in a diverse and varied country like ours. With more than 66,000kms of network, the organisation transports over 23 million passengers every day single day, apart from carrying 3 million tons of cargo over a staggering 23,000kms crisscrossing the swathes of the land. Certainly, the tourist map of India would be patchy without IR fostering and nurturing tourism in the country. Espousing tourism has been uppermost on the agenda of the Rail Bhavan mandarins. Luxury trains have been providing customised services in the shape of modish and decorous tourist trains along with specialised facilities on board and at stations of tourist gravity. The fabled Golden Chariot Express is a luxury tourist train which concatenates the states south of the Vindhyas. This was a path breaking move by IR as hitherto the seminal centrepieces of tourism planning in India centred on the Jaipur-Agra-Bharatpur sector, the Himalayas and a few hill stations like Udhagamandalam and Kodaikanal thrown in for good measure. And yes, the beaches of Goa beckoned people from across the globe. The Golden Chariot Express rediscovers the history, pomp and grandeur of the states of Karnataka, Goa, Kerala & Tamil Nadu as well as Pondicherry. Travellers have a choice of two iterinaries to pick from. Only a miniscule number of people are aware that the train is christened after the iconic Stone Chariot in the Vitthala Temple at Hampi. Hampi was the centrepiece of the legendary and formidable Vijayanagara Empire and produced exalted emperors like Krishnadevaraya, Harihara and Bukka. The 19 coaches on the train are coloured purple and gold, and captivatingly sport the logo of a mythical animal with the head of an elephant and body of a lion. The Golden Chariot operates between the months of October–March when the weather in the south is salubrious. It chugs out of Bangalore every Monday and had its maiden commercial run on 10 March, 2008. The train is run by the Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation (KSTDC) in alliance with The Maple Group which has been tasked with the hospitality services on the train. The Memorandum of Understanding between the State Tourism Board and the Indian Railways was inked in 2002. Soon the Integral Coach Factory (ICF) was hypothecated the task of giving shape to this train. Around 900 layouts were prepared by a plethora of engineers before the design was frozen. Architect Kusum Pendse along with 200 carpenters worked arduously to complete the designs of these railway coaches. The process bore fruit after a period of four months. The sweat, toil and imagination emanated on 23 January, 2008 and the Golden Chariot Express was unveiled on the tracks, commemorating the golden jubilee celebrations of Karnataka. Former President of India, Pratibha Devisingh Patil unveiled the train at Yeshwanthpur Railway Station, Bangalore. All those connected with this imaginative project heaved a sigh of relief on 10 March, 2008, when The Golden Chariot chugged out on its maiden commercial journey from Bangalore to Goa. This propertied and opulent train was feted with the title of “Asia's Leading Luxury Train” at World Travel Awards in 2013. The Golden Chariot provides accommodation in 44 cabins spread over 19 coaches which are named after the fabled dynasties that ruled the region: Kadamba, Hoysala, Rashtrakuta, Ganga, Chalukya, Bahamani, Adil Shahi, Sangama, Satavahana, Yadukula and Vijayanagara. This upmarket train has two restaurants, a lounge bar, a conference hall and a gym besides spa facilities. Onboard internet connectivity is offered via a USB-stick, and satellite antennae providing live television service is available in all the cabins. The Golden Chariot offers 2 itineraries to prospective tourists, baptised as the “Pride of the South” and “Splendour of the South”. Pride of the South The Pride of the South tour provides a 7 nights and 8 days itinerary during which several tourist places in Karnataka are covered. The destinations covered include Bengaluru (the Silicon City, also known for Cubbon Park and the Art of Living Centre), followed by the historic city of Mysuru (famed for talismanic Dussera festival and Chamundeswari Temple). Visitors are thereafter exposed to the ferocious tigers gnarling in their natural habitat at a tiger sanctuary at the Nagerhole National Park, followed by Hassan (known for the Hasanamba Temple), Belur (the epicentre of Hoysala architecture) and Halebidu (which hosts the Hoysalasewara Temple, the Kedarareswara Temple and a few Jain temples). On day five places of historical importance in Karnataka like Aihole, Pattadakal and Badami are discovered. The final day is reserved for the wondrous beaches, churches and forts of Goa and the opulent train chugs back to base camp at Bangalore. Splendour of the South The Splendour of the South tour traverse’s tourist places across three South Indian states. During this 7 nights and 8 days itinerary, various tourist and religious places of interest in Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Puducherry are explored. The journey spans Bangalore, Chennai, Puducherry (where Sri Aurobindo attained enlightenment and is famous for the Aurobindo Ashram apart from French settlements of the yore), the majestic Brihadeswara Temple at Thanjavur, followed by the venerable Madurai Meenakshi Temple, the pristine, undiscovered beaches of Thiruvananthapuram, Alleppey (exemplary for its boat rides in the backwaters of Kerala) and finally Kochi, the original melting pot of Jewish, Hindu, Christian and Islamic religions and ethos. The pilgrimage ends back at Bangalore. The twin legs of this amazing journey have remarkable heterogeneity to offer. One recalls the polymath French novelist Gustav Flaubert, who was to write, “Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” So grab your chance!

6. Palace on Wheels – Rediscovering Opulence

6. Palace on Wheels – Rediscovering Opulence The ‘empire over which the Sun never set’ singularly invested in spreading the railway network to spread their suzerainty across the swathes of the hinterland. The East India Company and subsequently the British Empire ferried its troops via the rail to conquer native Indians. But this was the very mode so effectively utilised by the Father of the Nation, Mahatma Gandhi to observe India. The first Prime Minister of India, Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru wrote in his celebrated “Discovery of India”, that his political mentor Bapu discovered India by travelling third class, uncovering and unearthing the real India, that Congressmen had hitherto not connected with. That was aeons ago. Today the Indian Railways runs suburban trains, mail express and passenger trains, high speed trains like Rajdhani Express, Shatabdi Express and Gatiman Express. T-18, christened as Vande Bharat Express is latest to scorch the tracks. Each set of trains cater to different segments of the burgeoning travel market. India transports the equivalent of ‘one Australia’ on its wheels every day. The maiden journey of the Palace on Wheels was on 26 January, 1982. The state of Rajasthan is richly steeped in history. The valour of Rajputana, the grandeur and majesty of its forts, resplendent colours in the arid desert, the pluck and hardihood of kings like Prithvi Raj Chauhan and Rana Maharana Pratap, who waged relentless battles against the Moghuls without surrendering their sovereignty and independence, add vivid strokes to the canvas of the region and exert a strong magnetic pull. Rajasthan is fabled for the Sufi and Bhakti movements. Meera Bai, the staunch devotee of Lord Krishna hailed from Merta, in close proximity to Jodhpur. India also tested its atomic potential in the rugged deserts of Pokhran. The country unleashed its nuclear might by testing the atomic bombs twice in this region, demonstrating its military might. The bijou town is in proximity to Jaisalmer. Thus this exalted and statuesque state can be discovered through various means of transportation. But an unparalleled attraction among foreigners, NRIs and the silk-stocking Indians is to traverse it by this lush and luxuriant train and carouse in its opulent trappings. The Palace on Wheels indisputably is a luxury tourist train. The train was launched by the Indian Railways in association with the Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation to promote tourism in Rajasthan. The train service was refurbished and re-launched in August 2009 with a new decor, itinerary and cuisine. It is a matter of immense pride that the train was voted the fourth most luxurious train in the world in the year 2010. The concept of the Palace on Wheels was derived from the royal background of the coaches used in the train. These were originally the personal railway coaches of the erstwhile rulers of the princely states of Rajputana, Gujarat, Hyderabad and the Viceroy of British India. Each saloon highlights the cultural ethos of the state, represented through the use of furniture, handicrafts, painting and furnishings typical of that state. The Delhi-based interior designer Monica Khanna did the honours of developing the refurbished interiors of the train. The Palace on Wheels begins its journey from Delhi Cantonment Station and has a 7 nights & 8 days itinerary, covering Jaipur, Sawai Madhopur and Chittorgarh over 3 days. From Chittorgarh the train traverses Udaipur, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur before covering Bharatpur and Agra on Day 7. Having travelled through Haryana, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, the train returns to its base at Delhi Cantonment. It is worth mentioning that the train has been feted with numerous high-end awards. • The train received the PATA Gold Award in 1987, within a few years of its inception. The award is bestowed by the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA). • Several television channels like the BBC, MTV, ZEE TV, National Geographic and Discovery Channel have filmed this quintessential train journey in various shows. • A survey conducted by the global travel magazine Conde Nast voted the Palace on Wheels as the 4th best luxurious train in the world and the best in Asia. These accolades should gladden the hearts of all the arm-chair critics of Indian Railways and tourism in India. Motoring by the Palace on Wheels, any tourist or lover of nature and history can experience the splendour of the ‘Pink City’ Jaipur, view the iconic and breath-taking Taj Mahal, climb atop the ramparts of Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort and gaze the shimmering pool of water from the superabundant Lake Palace Hotel at Udaipur. The legendary writer Oscar Wilde once wrote, “I never travel without my diary. One should always have something sensational to read in the train.” But those carrying novels, gizmos, laptops, ipods are unlikely to have any use for them during their journey by the regal and luxuriant Palace on Wheels.

5. The Majestic Royal Orient Express

5. The Majestic Royal Orient Express “Trains are wonderful ...to travel by train is to see nature and human beings, towns and churches, in fact see life,” wrote the iconic author Agatha Christie. The Royal Orient Express is an Indian luxury tourism train which scorches the tracks, traversing the western state of Gujarat and Rajasthan, its arid desert neighbour. The sojourn covers tourist attractions of paramount interest in the two states. This train has been fashioned on the lines of the celebrated Palace on Wheels, the country’s premier opulent train. The Royal Orient Express offers the tipper a taste of royal luxury while showcasing myriad facets of Indian culture and heritage. The train commenced commercial operations in 1994 as a joint venture of the Tourism Corporation of the government of Gujarat and the Indian Railways. The regalia adopted is an azure blue scheme to distinguish it from that of the Palace on Wheels. Initially there were the proverbial hiccups and the train did not quite fire the imagination of the bag packer with passenger occupancy plummeting from 25 percent in the first year to 15 percent in the next years. However, there was a major rejig in 2007, and soon Lady Luck smiled on the fortunes of the train and it began to generate surpluses. Royal Orient Express consists of 13 coaches that have been christened after the erstwhile kingdoms of the battle scarred and famous Rajputana. Guests luxuriate in the astonishing comfort and luxury of the carriages. The cabins were refurbished in a palatial manner, including the provision of spacious baths attached to them. There are multi-cuisine restaurants which provide delectable Rajasthani, Gujarati, other Indian, Chinese and Continental cuisine to tickle the taste buds of the tripper. The Royal Orient commences its voyage from Delhi Cantonment station, with stoppages at Chittorgarh, Jaipur, Udaipur, Ahmedabad, Mehsana, Junagarh, Veraval, Sasangir, Mandvi, Palitana and Sarkhej. During the course of the voyage it covers the Qutub Minar, Red Fort and Jama Masjid in Delhi, Chittorgarh Fort and Rani Padmini's Palace in Chittorgarh, Sabarmati Ashram in Ahmedabad, Lake Palace in Udaipur, the Gir Wildlife Sanctuary in Gujarat and the Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar in Jaipur. Every place mentioned is steeped in history and depicts the pluralistic culture of Indian history. The traveller is enriched with the sublime and tranquil atmosphere pervading Mahatma Gandhi’s Ashram; the lofty Qutub Minar of Sultanate period of medieval India, the grandeur of the Red Fort and the valour of Rajputana at both Mewar and Marwar never fail to impress. The lucky ones encounter the canine species gnawing its teeth in all majesty at humans who attempt to capture the moment in a camera. The journey begins on a Wednesday. As the signals are lowered at fifteen hundred hours the train chugs away. Sightseers are served with tea and dinner on board and stay on the estimable train overnight. At crack of dawn this luxury trains weaves its way into the historic town of Chittorgarh. Guests visit the famous Chittorgarh Fort which to date seems to resonate with the bravery of the Rajput Ranas and the sacrificial Jauhar of their womenfolk. As the magical history slowly sinks and settles into the mindscape of the out-of-towners, the splendorous train circumvents the curves and bends towards Udaipur; the city named after the famous Rana Uday Singh. After lunch, tourists visit the City Palace and a spot of boating in Lake Pichola is followed by a visit to Shilpgram - a crafts village- and round off the trip with a visit the Royal Gardens. As night falls the train leaves for Mehsana in Gujarat. At Mehsana, the guests are escorted to striking destinations of Mehsana and Ahmedabad. Among them are a visit to the Sun Temple at Modhera, the Rani ki Vav and the Patola weaving centre at Patan. At Ahmedabad they visit the Adalaj Vav, Sidi Sayyad Mosque, Calico Textile Museum, and last but not least the sublime Gandhi Ashram. At Junagarh the tripper revisits ancient India as they have a glimpse of the Ashokan Rock Edict of the 3rd century B.C. Upon arrival at Veraval, travellers visit the famous Somnath temple that was plundered on several occasions by the Portuguese and Muslim invaders. This famous Jyotirlinga temple which was reconstructed by Sardar Patel is situated on the shores of the Arabian Sea. From Somnath the train travels to the Gir Forest reserve. Guests depart for a tour of the Gir Lion sanctuary, where one can spot the famous Asiatic Lion. Thereafter tourists are taken to Delwada from where they witness the spectacular, unalloyed beauty of famous Ahmedpur-Mandvi beach, Diu Fort and St. Paul’s Cathedral. On Sunday the magical train arrives at Palitana where they are escorted to the fabled Jain temples at Shatrunjaya Hills. Subsequently they begin their journey to Sarkhej and visit the Vishalla village. Overnight as the guests sleep in the luxurious cabins, the plenteous train motors to Jaipur. It is dawn and the Pink City is still to awake as the train drops anchor the next morning. Tippers are set for a memorable tour of Jaipur. They witness the grandeur of Hawa Mahal, the City Palace and Jantar Mantar. A joyous ride seated on elephants, up to Amber Fort is the icing on the cake. Travellers are left spellbound by the majesty of the train and the astonishing places they visit as they try to recapitulate it in the amphitheatre of their mind as they chug back home. At Delhi Cantonment guests are treated to a sumptuous breakfast onboard before they disembark. As they attempt one last time to memorise the feel and touch of the train, tourists cannot but wonder that a journey of lifetime has come to an end. “Railway termini are our gates to the glorious and the unknown. Through them we pass out into adventure and sunshine, to them, alas we return,” wrote the talismanic author, E. M. Foster.

4. Maharaja’s Express Trains

4. Maharaja’s Express Trains “Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing the lawn, climb that goddam mountain,” writes the noted American novelist, Jack Kerouac. I reckon we all engage in travelling. The exercise is nothing short of a wanderlust odyssey. We discover and explore new places, savour resplendent and robust historical sites; get connected with the past, absorb breathtaking sites or just revel and luxuriate on a cruise or in an opulent train. These moments provide a quintessential slice of inspiration which is perfect to handle any situation that we may encounter as the mind metamorphoses to become lithesome and is able to take alacritous decisions after a rejuvenating travel experience. A few decades ago India provided an old fashioned and very-much-tried and tested tourism package which attracted foreigners and some propertied Indians to the orbit of the Delhi-Agra-Jaipur triad. This was at a time when profit and luxury were still feculent words. Reagonomics, Thatcherism, globalisation, the fall of the Berlin Wall and virtual collapse of Communism fuelled the imagination of a fossilised bureaucracy, which turned visionary overnight. Then the Indian panorama altered the tourism ecosystem with the railways introducing ingenuous, luxury train services like Palace on Wheels, Fairy Queen and Royal Orient Express in the post-globalised world (in collaboration with State Tourism Departments and private players). Indians began to relish the word ‘profit’. As the planned economy gave way to market forces, there were innumerable choices available to the consumer. The pioneers skilfully tweaked various packages. In that series were launched the Maharajas’ Express which chugged on several routes over different parts of the country. The Maharajas' Express is a luxury tourist train owned and operated by the IRCTC. Deftly tying together the more historically significant cities, the opulent train plies on seven circuits traversing more than a dozen destinations across the axis of North-West- Central and South–Western India. Keeping in mind the climate in several parts of the country, the trips have been sandwiched between the ebbing summers in October and the late springs of April. The estimable train Maharajas' Express was voted as “The World's Leading Luxury Train” five times in a succession from 2012 to 2017, at the World Travel Awards. No mean achievement which skewers the misgivings of the Cassandra’s of doubt prophets of doom prophesised about the tourism marketing prowess of Indians. It is noteworthy to mention that the Maharajas’ Express is the most extortionate and high-priced luxury train operating in the world. For its pre-eminent service Maharajas' Express was the first runner-up in the Specialist Train Operators Category at Conde Nast Travellers’ Reader Choice Travel Award in the year 2011. This estimable train service commenced operations in March 2010. A joint venture of the IRCTC Limited and Cox and Kings India Limited was to establish a company called Royale Indian Rail Tours Ltd (RIRTL), to oversee the functioning and management of the Maharajas’ Express. This joint venture was however terminated in 2011 and currently the train is manoeuvred exclusively by IRCTC. The Maharajas' Express provides a plethora of solutions under a single umbrella of ostentation - pneumatic suspension, live television, Wi-Fi, attached bathroom, dining cars, bar, lounge and a premium souvenir shop. Larger cabins are endowed with roll-top baths and spacious sitting rooms. The train comprises of twenty-three carriages which include accommodation, dining, bar, lounge, generator and store cars. The train gloats of a lounge called the Rajah Club which has a private bar, two dining cars and a dedicated bar car. There is a delectable on-board souvenir boutique which offers tat for the pilgrims of this opulent odyssey. The train is also equipped with a water filtration plant. This luxurious train crows of a Presidential suite offering breathtaking 5-star accommodation. LCD televisions, eco-friendly toilets, direct dial phones, DVD player, internet, individual climate control and electronic safes are available in each guest cabin. It is worthwhile to mention that there are five carriages in the category of Deluxe Cabins, a total of 20 cabins accommodating forty passengers (twelve twin bed cabins and eight double bed cabins); all suitable to haul passengers in plush luxury. There are eighteen cabins in the Junior Suites category that accommodate thirty-six passengers. Additionally, there are four Suites available, which are endowed with large separate sitting and sleeping areas. The Presidential Suite is constructed on an entire rail carriage, incorporating a separate sitting-cum-dining room, a master bedroom and bathroom with shower and bathtub, a twin bedroom and bathroom with shower. The Maharajas' Express Presidential Suite is the first such a rail carriage of its kind in the world meant for commercial usage. The superabundant train has two dining cars which have been designed to provide for expansive dining service, each with a seating capacity of 42 guests at a time so that all the guests dine together. The train has a state-of-the-art kitchen car designed to provide a range of cuisines in the restaurants Rang Mahal and Mayur Mahal. The restaurant menu includes traditional Indian cuisine along with Continental, Chinese and other International fare. A dedicated bar carriage, the Rajah Club, offers the choicest of wines, liqueurs, spirits and beers along with snacks and starters. The lounge cum bar called the Safari Bar is equipped with a multilingual library and board games and offers a casual lounge experience. The tariff includes drinks on board! Maharajas’ Express-The Indian Panorama The Indian Panorama covers the capital Delhi, resplendent Jaipur, breathtaking Ranthambore, Fatehpur Sikri, Agra, statuesque Orchha, awe-inspiring Khajuraho and the distinguished and sublime ancient city of Varanasi. The day is a salubrious Sunday when the esteemed guests board the Maharajas' Express at Delhi. Well-ensconced in the comfort of the opulent train, the sovereign train heads towards Jaipur once the guests partake of a sumptuous brunch aboard. Dinner is scheduled at an exclusive venue at the Pink City of Jaipur and then the guests retire for the night on the ritzy train. The following day after savouring a hearty breakfast onboard, the tourists disembark for a visit to the lordly Amber Fort. Lunch is subsequently organized for the guests onboard and the tourists spend the night on board as the train chugs to Ranthmbore. The fabled and imposing Ranthambore fort was built in 944 AD by the Rajput king Sapaldaksha of the Chauhan dynasty. The princely guests are treated to the vagaries of the verdant wildlife sanctuary, where man encounters menacing tigers, leopards and crocodiles in the marshy terrain. Thereafter the luxury express train heads towards Fatehpur Sikri. This red sandstone fort was founded by Akbar the Great in 1569, and is celebrated for its “Buland Darwaza”, the palace of Jodha Bai and the tomb of Sufi saint Salim Chisti. This is the place from where Akbar proclaimed the secular religion of “Din-e-Illahi”. On the fourth day as the train reaches Agra, the occupants de-board for an early morning visit to the Taj Mahal. The beauty of the Taj, followed by breakfast at an exclusive venue is indeed a magical start to the day. This is followed by lunch onboard. In the afternoon travellers visit the splendid Agra Fort. This particular itinerary conjures Mandrake like magic as it weaves Mughal, Rajputana and Bundelkhandi history into a single tapestry. Orchha and Khajuraho are known for their unalloyed and pristine history and architecture. The early morning visit to the Orchha Fort and the Raja Ram temple (the only place in India, perhaps the globe, where Lord Ram is also accorded the status of a king) leave the tourists in a trance. Come afternoon and the plushy tourists visit the incredible Khajuraho temples, the landscape dotted with the exalted Kandariya Mahadev Temple, Lakshmana Temple, the Chaturbhuj Temple and Devi Jagdamba Temple distinctively carved in the nagara style of architecture. The entire spectrum has been accorded the status of being a UNESCO World Heritage. The tourists pine for more as the grandiose train chugs its way to the ancient town of Varanasi. The day is spent paying obeisance at the famous Kashi Vishwanath Temple and visting Sarnath where Gautama Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. In the evening is the mandatory visit to the ghats of Varanasi where the tourists witness the memorable aarti at the Assi Ghat. This marks the end of a wondrous journey cherished by the tourists, their memory banks brimful with magical moments. Maharajas’ Express-The Southern Jewels For a few moments take a break and imagine a gargantuan wedge plunging into the Indian Ocean. South India is the subcontinent's steamy heartland – a lush contrast to the peaks and plains up north. Incredible Heritage Wherever a person traverses southern India, one uncovers iconic relics of the several civilisations which have inhabited this land over two millennia. The spectacular rock-cut shrines carved out by Buddhists, Hindus and Jains at Ajanta and Ellora; the palaces, tombs, forts and mosques of Muslim dynasties in the Deccan plateau. Further Tamil Nadu's inspired Pallava sculptures and the towering Chola temples; the preternatural ruins of the Vijayanagara capital at Hampi…and several diverse places more than perhaps an individual needs to remain immortal to appreciate the grandeur. Southern India is a melting pot and a treasure trove with few parallels. Luscious Landscapes Several thousands of kilometres long, with cascading coastline dotting the landscape of fertile plains, glinting backwaters and rolling hills in South India. This is a constantly changing landscape which is glisteningly green by the double-barrelled monsoon. The palm-strung strands and inland waterways of the west provide a gateway to the spice gardens, emerald tea plantations, tropical forests and cool hill-station retreats in the Western Ghats. The drier Deccan 'plateau' is far from flat, crisscrossed by several craggy ranges and often spattered with dramatic, fort-topped outcrops. Across the region, protected wild forests provide shelter to a world of wildlife, ranging from elephants and tigers to monkeys, deer and sloth bears. Amazing Culinary Delights South India's glorious culinary variety offers a melange of dining options to the connoisseur and the gluttonous. Some of India's most famous and traditional staples originate from this part of the country- the large papery dosas (savoury crêpes) and fluffy idlis (fermented rice cakes) are the backbone of South Indian cooking. Goa's spicy, Portuguese-influenced cuisine is a fiery inventive fusion at its most splendiferous. Kerala's coconut-infused seafood is the stuff of legends; and, everywhere one travels, the humble South Indian kaapi (filter coffee) makes one tick. The Itinerary The places covered by this opulent train makes a dramatic beginning with the historical city of Thiruvananthapuram (the capital city of God’s Own Country, Kerala) before calling it a day at the financial capital of India, Mumbai. After a visit to the famous Kollam beach and Anantha Padmanabha Swami Temple the wondrous journey begins by embarking upon Maharajas' Express as the sun sets in the Arabian Sea. The excursionist savours delicious dinner onboard while continuing the sojourn to Mahabalipuram which is famous for its pristine beaches and the Shore Temple as it overlooks the shore of the Bay of Bengal. This is a structural temple, built with blocks of granite, dating back to the 8th century AD. At the time of its construction this area was a busy port during the reign of Narasimhavarman II of the Pallava dynasty. The propertied train then drops anchor at Chettinad/Karaikudi in interior Tamil Nadu. Following a sumptuous breakfast on board, the sightseers take a trip to the statuesque Chettinad Mansions and the celebrated Athangudi Tile Factory. The sovereign mansions cast an indelible impression on the minds of the globetrotter, leaving them spellbound. As a unique measure the tripper is part of a cooking demo at the Chettinad Heritage Hotel besides indulgence in other fun activities. After travelling through backwaters of Kerala, Mahabalipuram and Chettinad the holiday maker, is a witness to the train scorching the tracks to Mysuru. Upon arrival at Mysuru, the voyagers feast on a delectable gourmet breakfast. Thereafter, they visit the resplendent Mysuru Palace. The day then proceeds with a wholesome lunch at an exclusive get away. Thereafter the trippers appreciate the majesty of Ranganatha Swamy Temple and the armoury of Tipu Sultan who waged a forlorn battle against the French invaders. Dinner is served onboard. Overnight the portentous train chugs its way to Hampi, the wondrous UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hampi was the capital of Vijayanagara Empire and known for rulers like Krishnadevaraya and Harihara and Bukka. The journeyers spend the day at Anegundi village, which is legendary for its historical, cultural and religious significance. The melting pot, sylvan beaches of Goa welcome the pilgrims of this odyssey the next morning. After a tingling breakfast the backpackers pay obeisance at the churches of North Goa. This is followed by a delightful walk through of the Old Panjim Houses. The more adventurous are provided an option to swim in the gushing waves of the beaches of Goa. This is followed by a visit to the Goa Chitra Museum. After dinner on board, the grandiose train moves to Ratnagiri. Once at Ratnagiri, the trippers are served a wholesome breakfast on board which is followed with a trip to Ratnadurg Fort ruins, the Government Aquarium (which houses the fossil of a gargantuan whale) and a visit to Thibaw Palace (which has Burmese connections). The out-of-house visitors are left awestruck by the majesty of South India and conclude their journey at Mumbai. Maharajas’ Express –Treasures of India This particular package focuses on the sublime and exotic Taj, the robust and brawny Ranthambore Fort and the Pink City of Jaipur before returning to Lutyens’ Delhi. The Itinerary The expedition chugs to Agra. Guests travelling by this superabundant train are taken to Agra Fort (incidentally this monument is the centrepiece in the Sherlock Holmes mystery ‘The Sign of the Four’). The majestic fort and grand palaces are UNESCO Heritage Sites. Agra was the capital of the Mughals till 1638 before the potentate moved to Delhi. The visitors are then escorted to the Taj Mahal, the ivory-white marble mausoleum on the south bank of River Yamuna. The breathtaking structure was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal Emperor, Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal. The historical site houses the tomb of Shah Jahan too. On the second day, after a sumptuous breakfast at an elite destination, the train navigates its way to Sawai Madhopur. The guests are treated to a ritzy lunch and head for a wildlife safari at the Ranthambore National Park, near the bijou town of Sawai Madhopur. The park served as hunting grounds of the maharajahs of Jaipur until the time of India’s independence and was built by the Chauhan dynasty. On its last leg, this striking journey drops anchor at Jaipur. Guests marvel at the grandeur of the Amber Fort, the Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar. Taste buds are tickled through a delectable lunch onboard. The entire day is spent taking in the sights of the Pink City at a relaxed pace. Finally the plenteous train begins its journey back to New Delhi. The sojourn ends on a gastronomic high as guests are served a seven-course dinner aboard the train. The final treat is a swanky breakfast on the fourth day of the trip as they chug into Delhi and bask in some priceless treasures of India. “A person does not grow from the ground like a vine or a tree; one is not part of a plot of land. Mankind has legs so it can wander,” succinctly writes the American author Roman Payne. Maharajas’ Express- Indian Splendour The Indian Splendour is a spellbinding and engrossing peregrination covering an extensive list of worthy tourist spots. The tour commences from Lutyens’ Delhi and terminates at the financial capital of India, Mumbai. This opulent wanderlust spans variegated places, luxuriating through Agra’s Taj Mahal, the majestic fort and wildlife sanctuary at Ranthambore, the Pink City of Jaipur, the robust alcazars of Bikaner and Jodhpur in the depths of Rajasthan, followed by the lake city of Udaipur and finishing with a flourish in Mumbai. The Itinerary Come Sunday and the guests board the luxurious Maharajas' Express at Delhi. The train chugs its way to Agra, to visit the splendid Agra Fort. The Mughal Emperor Akbar began its construction in 1565 and his son Jehangir and grandson Shah Jahan added structures to the edifice. On Monday the ritzy tourists are awe struck by the alluring Taj Mahal. Both the Agra Fort and Taj Mahal have been deified as World Heritage sites by the UNESCO. After exploring the white-marble structure that epitomises pristine love, the tourists are escorted to an exclusive venue for breakfast. Once they hop on to the train again, it proceeds to Sawai Madhopur. After lunch at one of the lavish restaurants onboard, they detrain for a safari in the Ranthambore National Park and visit the brawny forts built by the Chauhan dynasty in 13th century (UNESCO World Heritage sites in their own right). After a sumptuous dinner on board, the train proceeds to Jaipur. On the third day this lavish train drops anchor at Jaipur. The travellers feast on breakfast aboard the train and then disembark to visit the robust Amber Fort of Jaipur. In the evening, they are shepherded to an exclusive venue for dinner. The train at night scorches the tracks to Bikaner, where after a leisurely breakfast onboard, tourists proceed to visit the Junagarh Fort. This fort was constructed under the supervision of Karan Chand in 1594 for the King Raja Rai Singh, the 6th ruler of the dynasty. This is an exceptional fort in Rajasthan protected as it is by a moat and not constructed on a hill top. The entire city of Bikaner is built around the fort complex. Later on the princely family moved to Lalgarh. After an exhausting day the silk-stocking guests are treated to an exclusive bar-be-cue planned for evening on the golden sand dunes. On the fifth day the well-heeled travellers drop anchor at Jodhpur. The morning is free and begins with leisurely pursuits on the train. After a delightful lunch, guests disembark and are treated to the amazing sights of the gargantuan Mehrangarh Fort. The night after Jodhpur is spent travelling in ornate carriages and breakfast is on board the next morning. The day begins at Udaipur, the city named after Rana Udai Singh of the Mewar dynasty and father of the valorous Rana Pratap who never accepted Mughal suzerainty. Rana Pratap is a legendary Rana, whose heroic feats on the esteemed horse Chetak made him an icon in the memory banks of Rajputana. He acquired an exalted status for the arduous Battle of Haldighati against the Mughal Emperor Akbar. After a boat ride on Lake Pichola and a visit to the City Palace the plush tourists entrain for the last leg of the journey to Mumbai, famous for Bollywood, Juhu Beach, Marine Drive, the Elephanta caves and so much more, creating indelible memories etched in their minds. “Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living,” writes author Miriam Beard. Maharajas’ Express-Southern Sojourn South India symbolises classical Indian heritage. The landscape is dotted with wondrous and breathtaking temples, churches, mosques and synagogues reflecting how strongly its pluralistic religious and spiritual thought is interwoven and interlaced in the lives of the denizens. The swinging coconut palm trees, the sun kissed beaches, the mesmerizing backwaters, the prodigious and colourful festivals, varied and delightful cuisine, attract millions of travellers south of Vindhyas every year. The art and architecture leave the spellbound onlookers awestruck. Reflecting exotic and prepossessing beauty and grace, the places of worship of variegated faiths, the grandeur of the monuments and palaces of South India are singular their pull. South India is a place to experience the rich culture and heritage of India. The Itinerary The trip commences from Mumbai, the financial capital of India and traverses through Ratnagiri on the Konkan coast and drops anchor at the exotic beaches of Goa, and weaves its way through the historical ruins of Hampi in Karnataka and traditional Mysuru and finally criss-crosses through Kerala. Travelling overnight from Mumbai, the train reaches Ratnagiri where tourists reconnoitre this port town in Maharashtra. Overlooking the Arabian Sea is the majestic Ratnadurg Fort which houses the legendary Bhagwati temple. A lighthouse, a fish museum and an aquarium which houses turtles and a jaw-dropping gargantuan skeleton of a whale are the other notable attractions. Further to discover is the Thibaw Palace which was once the residence of the exiled king of Burma. Tourists make a beeline to the fabled Ganpatipule Temple following which is an encounter with ferocious tigers in the Koyna Wildlife Sanctuary. On the second day after a sumptuous breakfast served onboard, pilgrims of this opulent train head towards North Goa to pay obeisance at the transcendent churches. After a brief “Walk the Talk” tour of Old Panjim Houses the plush guests spend some quality time with the astounding waves on the beaches of Goa. Post lunch onboard, the travellers visit the Goa Chitra Museum, which houses around 4,000 artefacts—showcasing Goa's traditional agrarian lifestyle and technology. Dinner is served at an exclusive joint and thereafter the train scorches the tracks to the interiors of Karnataka. The medieval town of Hampi is the next cynosure for the tourists. Hampi, also referred to as the Medley of Monuments at Hampi has been designated as a World Heritage site by UNESCO. This was the epicentre of the Hindu Vijanagara Empire in the 14th century. Chronicles recorded by Persian and European travellers, particularly the Portuguese, indicate that Hampi was a prosperous, wealthy and grand city on the banks of the Tungabhadra River, with numerous temples, farms and trading markets. The Vijayanagara Empire was defeated by a coalition of Muslim sultanates and its capital was conquered, pillaged and destroyed by Sultanate armies in 1565, and in the aftermath of bloodbath Hampi remained in ruins. The propertied train then chugs its way to Mysuru by night. Typical South Indian fare is served at breakfast which is followed by a voyage to the spectacular Mysuru Palace. The hosts transport the guests to an exclusive destination for a lip smacking lunch. The propertied guests are then treated to an exciting visit to the banks of Cauvery River near the historical town of Srirangapatnam where they have a glimpse of Srirangapatna Fort, Daria Daulat Baugh, Scott’s Bungalow, the Ranganatha Swamy Temple and the famous Tipu’s armoury. After luxuriating in Karnataka this grandeur train transports its well-heeled guests to God’s own Country, Kerala. The train stops at Kochi (a melting pot of faiths and a city truly representative of the pluralistic culture of India). Kochi is also known as the Queen of Arabian Sea, and is eponymous for its famous synagogue, St Francis’s Church and the grave of the original traveller Vasco da Gama. This was also the place where the Chera Kingdom established their empire. The tourists unravel at the model ecotourism village during their stay and traverse to Kumarakom. On the seventh day of this expedition, guests relish a Canoe Cruise in the tranquil backwaters. After dinner on board, this upscale train motors its way to Thiruvananthapuram, where the voyage terminates. “Remember that happiness is a way of travel – not a destination,” writes the American politician Roy M. Goodman. One could very well say that travel is a way of happiness!

Enhanced Passenger Facilities by Indian Railways

3. Enhanced Passenger Facilities by Indian Railways It was way back in 1832, at Madras (now Chennai) that the honchos of the East India Company rolled out grandiose plans to construct railways where they were the suzerains. It will be a matter of considerable interest to Indologists, historians and those fascinated in the history and transformation of the transportation sector in India to appreciate that the country's first train, Red Hill Railway (built by Arthur Cotton to transport granite for road-building), chugged from Red Hills to the Chintadripet bridge in the year 1837 in Madras. Somewhere in 1845, the Godavari Dam Construction Railway was established by Cotton at Dowleswaram in Rajahmundry, to supply stone for the construction of a dam over the Godavari River in present day Andhra Pradesh, then part of the Madras Presidency. However, the landmark event was India's first passenger train, hauled by three steam locomotives (Sahib, Sindh and Sultan), that ran for 34 kilometres between Bori Bunder and Thane, with 400 people onboard in 14 carriages, on 16 April 1853. This momentous event had metamorphosed India forever. Since then Indian Railways has been appropriately called the Lifeline of the Nation. This gargantuan transporter plays a pivotal role in fuelling the economic growth of the country. Railways are the largest integrating force which acts as an adhesive for a country as diverse as India. It is a humungous task and is verily the spine of the country’s economic development. This massive organisation resolutely and relentlessly strives to provide varied facilities and services at stations and on board its trains. Based on passenger feedback, quality of services are constantly augmented and tweaked to improve the variegated basket. These include amenities such as seating arrangements, lighting facilities, fans, drinking water, better equipped toilets, waiting halls, retiring rooms, foot over-bridges, catering units and signages at various stations across the country. Besides these traditional services, railways have risen to the occasion to proffer escalators, ticket vending machines, executive lounges, mobile and laptop charging points, electronic train indicator boards to meet with the aspirations of a burgeoning travelling public and cast the archaic outlook to become more latter-day and contemporary. Special attention has been placed on the special-abled passengers (Divyangjans) by providing earmarked reserved berths, improved signages, ramps, special toilet facilities, dedicated parking spaces, discrete toilets and water taps to make them inclusive in the system and consequently railways also eschew the hitherto Burra Saheb attitude of the past and become more humane in their approach towards dealing with passengers. Expansive proportion of funds has been allocated by the Ministry of Railways, over the last few years in particular to augment passenger amenities at stations (the boarding, intermediate and terminal point for any traveller). It would be noteworthy to mention that in the year 2017-18 the expenditure on variegated passenger amenities was Rs 1,287 crores, which outlay was enhanced to Rs 1,658 crores in the subsequent year. The Ministry of Railways as per the latest policy guidelines have categorised the entire spectrum of 8,738 stations as suburban, non-suburban or halt category of stations. In order to cater to the vast number of women travellers, Baby Feeding Facilities have been organised. This path breaking, neoteric measure provides privacy and comfort to the lactating mother and her child. Recall the talismanic movie Gandhi, where Ben Kingsley essaying the role of the Mahatma passes on his turban across a river to a woman feeding an infant on the banks of a river. The scene is etched in the alcoves of cine goers’ minds. But the moot point is to protect the modesty of women where several predators are on the prowl. Further in order to expand the portfolio of passenger services, the recourse of booking concierge service has been provided on the hugely fabled 139 number which is normally used by the travelling public to monitor PNR, seat number, fare enquiries and booking of meals while travelling. Additionally the concept of Saarthi Sewa has been unleashed at 63 important railway stations of the country. At these stations, 110 Battery Operated Vehicles (BOVs) have been launched which cater to women passengers, the differently abled and senior citizens. Several NGOs and corporate entities have been co-opted in this laudable drive which is run without any additional charge and is part of their Corporate Social Responsibility. Another significant step for the geriatric passengers and the differently abled (Divyangjan) passengers has been the Yatri Mitra Sewa. IRCTC has been nominated to provide any form of assistance required to these individuals. As a major milestone, Railways have initiated to transform a station into what is now called the “Happiness Junction” station. The first of its kind is at Sonepur Junction which is part of the East Central Railway. The innovation is to engage a passenger waiting to board a train in a constructive and enthralling manner. Under the programme, books, journals, newspapers and different cultural activities have been organised. These are some out-of-the-box approaches which have been initiated to trigger a change in the mindset of the Indian passenger travelling by trains. “Friends are as companions on a journey, who ought to aid each other to persevere in the road to a happier life,” wrote Pythagoras, the ancient Greek mathematician and philosopher. Indian Railways has the vision and mission to become as friendly as possible.

2. Women’s Empowerment and Indian Railways

2. Women’s Empowerment and Indian Railways One is a talismanic cricketer – Mahendra Singh Dhoni and the other an iconic sprinter who scorched the tracks, P.T. Usha. One began his career with the South Eastern Railway and the other still works on Southern Railway. Prakriti and Purusha are an integral part of our ancient folklore and mythology. The entire creation is believed to be the synergy between these two principles; Prakriti is indicative of the feminine aspect and Purusha represents the masculine. The Ministry of Railways had assiduously devoted the year 2018 to the safety of women and children. This was a singular and momentous step, taken towards empowerment of women utilising the largest transportation network in the country. How many of us are aware that about one-fifth of the passengers travelling daily by various mail, express, passenger and suburban trains are women? Of the 23 million passengers who commute by the railways daily, as many as 4.6 million are women. Some major initiatives taken to provide facilities to women speak volumes of the guardianship and ministration being extended to women by the railway administration. Certainly it is not merely posturing or empty rhetoric. One of these is the Security Help Line, ‘182’ for women. This arrangement is ensured 24 by 7, for all travellers and in particular women passengers. The arrangement is functional through the Divisional Control Rooms of the Railway Protection Force (RPF) across Indian Railways. The helpline is accessible to all passengers, ensuring a security blanket during their journey. It is noteworthy to mention that helpline gets activated and ensures real time complaint resolution. Through the use of Twitter, maximal priority has been provided to women passengers so that any untoward incident can be combated promptly and with finesse. Passenger awareness programmes have been launched by a proactive railway administration by employing loud hailers/Public Address systems, besides pasting security stickers of the RPF control rooms. Assistance of technological tools such as Facebook and Twitter is being zealously used to play a pivotal role to redress the grievances of woman passengers. Another noteworthy initiative is the reservation of lower berths for lady passengers. A landmark step towards extending a hassle-free travel, a special quota has been ear marked on trains for senior women citizens, pregnant women and female passengers who have attained 45 years age of age. The software package of the Passenger Reservation System has been tweaked to provide lower berths (upto 6 lower berths in sleeper class, 3 lower berths per coach in III AC and 3 lower berths per coach in II AC). Besides on Rajdhani Expresses, the number of lower berths has been increased for woman passengers. To ensure greater comfort and safety of female travellers, the railway administration is operating Ladies Special EMU, MEMU, MMTS services on the suburban sections of metropolitan cities- Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata and also on the NCR sections of Delhi region. After the gut wrenching Nirbhaya episode which had rankled the collective conscience of the country, these are some very welcome and efficacious steps launched by the Ministry of Railways. Yet another exemplary, though relatively unknown step is that of escorting women passengers during travel. This has been done by pooling the personnel of the RPF and the Government Railway Police (GRP) to be a sort of duenna to woman passengers. It would be pertinent to mention that lady RPF personnel acted as midwives and facilitated 49 childbirths at stations and on moving trains while guarding the modesty and privacy of the would-be mothers. Definitely a feather in the cap! Continuing the trend of using technology to streamline work is the Access Control and Video Surveillance System. As a path breaking initiative the railway administration has installed CCTV cameras which encompass the integrated security system for the security of women at the station premises. The provisions of CCTV surveillance system which comes under the Nirbhaya Umbrella Fund has been expanded and commissioned over several stations of Indian Railways. Janani Sewa was introduced as a small gesture in order to ameliorate hardships faced by mothers travelling with their infants. The service led to the inclusion of a menu for infants and children at railway stations. This includes baby food items, warm milk and water and several meal combos under the auspices of the Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC). Such items can be procured through passenger-friendly SMSs, mobile apps, and the four digit (1323) all India toll-free number. “Travelling alone does not mean you’re alone. Most often you meet marvellous people along the way and make connections that last a lifetime,” writes Jacqueline Boone, the founder of Boone Consulting, a global marketing and learning company. Suffice to say Indian Railways is providing the requisite ballast of comfort to ensure that women passengers feel part of the travel experience without any encumbrance and revisit railway travel.