Kalka- Simla, an Exotic
Rail Journey
“I listened, motionless and still, and as
I mounted up the hill, the music in my heart I heard, long after it was heard
no more,” captivating lines by the iconic poet William Wordsworth and a fitting
description of the wondrous train journey from Kalka to Simla.
Indian Railways
proudly proclaim that it transports ‘an Australia’ everyday on its wheels, no
mean feat! However, these days airlines and roadways have built robust
infrastructures and provide product, price, place and promotion (the 4 Ps of
marketing), luring travellers away from the sedate pace of rail travel.
Nevertheless, the narrative to unearth landscapes as a train motors through the
serpentine bends on some steep, fascinating and enthralling routes in our vast
country remains the domain and bulwark of the Indian Railways. A backpacker
uncovers diverse landscapes while undertaking a rail journey. Steep mountain
slopes, narrow valleys, dense jungles and wide seas are just some of the jewels
waiting to be discovered as one chugs along the rail routes.
The Gen X or Y perhaps are perhaps unaware of two
momentous events which transpired at Simla. Aeons ago in the summer of 1945, it
was at Simla that Lord Wavell, the Viceroy of India discussed the Cabinet
Mission plan with various stake holders who were at the forefront of India’s
struggle. Exactly 27 years later, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India and
President Zulfikar Ali Bhutto of Pakistan inked the Simla pact on 2 July 1972,
paving the way to end hostilities between the two warring and sparring nations.
India had earlier vanquished Pakistan in December 1971 in a war that resulted
in the creation of the new nation state of Bangladesh. This Queen of Hills
served as the Summer Capital when Indians were the subjects of the British
monarchy and was the seat of the estimable Railway Board. Today it houses the
academy for the probationers of the Indian Audit and Accounts Service.
A vacationer who cherishes a journey through
picturesque valleys, up steep pathways and through foggy meadows, would certainly
not be disappointed as he or she travels in the narrow-gauge train on the
Shivaliks from Kalka to Simla. This stretch from Kalka to Simla along with the
little toy train, a legacy bequeathed by the British, has been declared a World
Heritage Site by the UNESCO.
The train journey from Kalka to India’s erstwhile
summer capital Simla at the crack of dawn is quintessential rail-travel on
the hills of India. The erstwhile quaint town is today a hustling and bustling
tourist spot, located in the north-western ranges of the Himalayas at an
altitude of 2,213m. The toy train weaves its journey from Kalka, a town in its
neighbouring state, Haryana and terminates at the enchanting Simla.
The Kalka – Simla rail line is a narrow gauge railway
which traverses a distance of 96km. This 96-km long railway track was
constructed over 889 short to long bridges and passes through 102 tunnels in
the foothills of the Himalayas; the longest tunnel is located at Barog.
A
Twist in the Tale – Barog Tunnel
On this
enchanting trip famished tourists break journey to savour delicious parathas
and fried eggs, cutlets and piping hot tea or coffee in a restaurant at Barog.
There is mystique and majesty attached to the place. Cool breeze wafts in and
one can hear the sounds of chirping birds and a rivulet as the Sun plays hide
and seek.
The Barog
Tunnel passes through the fissured sandstone and has a tragic tale associated
with from during its construction. Colonel Barog, who was supervising the
construction of Tunnel No. 33 committed the cardinal mistake of boring the
tunnel from both (opposite) ends of the mountain, a strategy adopted to
expedite construction.
The crew was
divided into two halves, and started the digging and blasting work for the
tunnel from the opposite ends. The Colonel instructed the crew members to bore
the tunnel and according to his calculations both the ends would intersect at
the centre. He thereby envisioned a single tunnel in the amphitheatre of his
mind.
The workers kept on boring from either end, but did not
meet even after crossing the centre of the mountain. After some time, the
workers became restless and questioned the decisions taken by Colonel Barog.
The Colonel too realized that on account of his
miscalculations, the alignment of the tunnels had gone awry and the two ends of
the tunnel did not meet. His miseries were compounded as the British government
decided to levy a hefty fine on the Colonel for profligacy of public property
and wealth. It was a double whammy for Colonel Barog as the Government took
umbrage and the staff became hostile. In sheer despondency Colonel Barog
snuffed his life through the barrel of his gun.
On this picturesque path ply several trains including
the Kalka-Simla Express, Himalayan Queen, and Shivalik Queen Express. The journey
is enduringly enchanting at a slow pace as the train ascends the slope
rhythmically through stations such as Dharampur, Solan, Kandaghat, Tara Devi,
Barog, Salogra, Totu, and Summerhill to reach the summer capital. The journey,
which snakes its way through imposing mountains leaves an indelible impression
on the minds of the pilgrim.
Silken and pristine mountains, breathtaking lakes,
salubrious climate, and alluring greenery –Simla offers on the platter all
that a tourist pines for.
The breathtaking beauty of the city and the places in
the vicinity never cease to leave the traveller spellbound. There is this
magical quality in air which endears Simla to the visitor compelling them to
visit time and again.
There are around eighteen tourist spots which are
habitually visited by sightseers. The more celebrated among them are the Summer
Hills, the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies, Annandale, Jakhoo Hill and
Temple, Tara Devi Temple, Chail (the Palace of Maharaja of Patiala), Gaiety
Theatre and the Viceregal Lodge. Summer or winter, a stroll along Mall Road
with a stop by for a hot cup of coffee is a must do. Come winter and Kufri tops
the list of must-visits.
Though tourists throng the Queen of Hills by road,
rail and by air, the journey by rail through the thick forest cover and clouds
floating through the coaches has an old world charm which leaves an
ineffaceable impression on the febrile mind of the tipper. Thus seize every
opportunity to visit Simla by rail for the amazing magical quality attached with
the rail journey.
“Trains are wonderful.... To travel by train is to see
nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact, to see life.”-
Agatha Christie
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