Discovering Central India by Rail
“I like trains. I
like their rhythm, and I like the freedom of being suspended between two
places, all anxieties of purpose taken care of: for this moment I know where I
am going,” writes the prodigious Australian author Anna Funder.
Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Khajuraho and
Varanasi are cities which capture the ancient, medieval and modern periods of
Indian culture, history and ethos. These cities cover the states of political
Delhi, mystical Uttar Pradesh, valorous Rajasthan and vibrant Madhya Pradesh.
Striking monuments
and places of worship dot the landscape which fires the imagination of the
backpacker. These populous states are miniature representations of the culture
and heritage of India. Thus in order to witness the grandeur and charisma of
India, it would be perspicacious for a tripper to hitch on to the
bandwagon of the Central India Tour proffered by the IRCTC.
The entire region
is marked by wildlife sanctuaries, tribal habitats, opulent resorts and ancient
pilgrimage sites. Without doubt, the Central India Tour offers to its visitors
an assorted platter of attractions.
Central India
prides itself for housing in its midst the heritage capital of India. The
architectural marvels located in the area fascinate Indian and international
trippers alike who come in hordes to this part of the country. Central India
travel packages enthral and engross sightseers when undertaken in its
entirety.
Prologue- Stay at Delhi
Tourists are
received by representatives of the IRCTC at Delhi, either at the airport or the
railway station and are then transferred to an estimable hotel for an overnight
stay.
A sumptuous
breakfast is followed by a city tour of New Delhi & Old Delhi. As per
mythology the potentates of Hastinapur (now part of Delhi) were the Kaurava and
Pandava princes. Thereafter several singular Hindu rulers left their stamp,
such as emperors like Chandragupta Maurya, Ashoka, Harsha and those of the
Gupta dynasty.
There was a change
of hands (and fortunes) as the new sovereigns from the Sultanate period took
over followed by the Chauhans and then the Mughals until the city capitulated
to the Britishers. It was then that Lutyens’ Delhi was established. So the city
offers variegated colours and shades of heritage and is a repository of
history, knowledge and culture. It is a veritable melting pot of India.
Tourists cover the
Birla Temple, India Gate, Parliament area, prominent Government buildings,
Humayun's Tomb, the Qutab Minar, the Gandhi Memorial at Raj Ghat, the Chandni
Chowk market, the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid, to name but a few sites. It is
indeed a sojourn into history.
The Valour of Rajasthan
At the crack of
the dawn, the globetrotters head to Delhi Cantonment Station to board the
prestigious Shatabdi Express to the Pink City of Jaipur, the capital city of
the state of Rajasthan. It evokes a distinct feeling of royalty among the
visitors. The city was established in 1727, and has expanded far beyond what is
known as the Old City or ‘Pink City’ for its resplendent trademark terracotta
pink buildings.
At the centre of its stately street grid,
which is quintessentially Indian, stands the opulent, colonnaded City Palace
complex. Upon arrival guests check in at an upmarket hotel. In the afternoon a
meticulously planned sightseeing tour of Jaipur is organised by the officials
of the IRCTC. The tour includes spots like City Palace, the Observatory (Jantar
Mantar), the Albert Museum, the Hawa Mahal and shopping for the famous
jewellery and objects made from camel leather.
Jaipur to Agra
Breakfast the next morning is a hearty affair. A typical Rajasthani breakfast
is quite a regal affair, which every foodie must attempt. Some of the
favourites offered by the chef include - Pyaaz Kachori, Bajra Roti and Lahsun
Chutney, Kalmi Vada, Moong Dal Pakori, Methi Bajra Puri and Aloo Subzi.
Travellers check
out and depart for an excursion to Amber Fort (on elephant-back!) and
thereafter motor down to Agra in the afternoon.
There is a brief
stop-over at the deserted capital of the Mughals, Fatehpur Sikri. Red sandstone
buildings cluster at its centre. The Buland Darwaza is the entrance to
the Jama Masjid mosque. In the vicinity is the marble tomb of Salim Chishti.
The Diwan-E-Khas hall has exquisitely embellished central pillar. Jodha
Bai’s Palace is an amalgam of Hindu and Mughal styles, next to the five-storeyed
Panch Mahal which overlooks the site.
Stay at Agra
Breakfast at an
upmarket hotel is followed by a leisurely walk in the market area where
artefacts (exuding a magnetic charm of their own) are available. Despite having
had a lip- smacking breakfast, several tourist gorge on golgappas.
Thereafter the day is spent visiting the Agra Fort and the Sikandra Tomb. In
the evening, one explores the prepossessing Taj Mahal.
Agra to Khajuraho
The trippers next
day board the much acclaimed Shatabdi Express from Agra to Jhansi and
thereafter travel by road to Khajuraho. The Khajuraho group of monuments is a
genus of Hindu and Jain temples in the Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh,
about 175 kilometres southeast of Jhansi. These monuments have been declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temples are famous for their nagara-style
architectural symbolism and their erotic sculpture. It is sheer delight to
marvel at the structures – from the sensual and erotic to the sublime. The
evening is spent watching the spectacular son- et-lumière, which traces
the history and brings to life scintillating nuggets of the local lore.
Ganga Beckons
After chilling out
the night at Khajuraho, the following morning guests are taken to the Ken River
to watch the cascading waterfalls and to have a look at the ancient volcanic
rocks. Thereafter, the sightseers board a flight to Varanasi.
Varanasi is an
ancient city in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, dating as far back
as the 11th century B.C. and is considered the spiritual capital of India. The
city draws Hindu pilgrims who bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges and also
perform the last rites on the banks of the river. Along the city's winding
streets are some 2,000 temples, including the iconic Kashi Vishwanath, the
‘Golden Temple’ dedicated to Lord Shiva. Visitors are taken to Sarnath where
Gautama Buddha, upon attaining enlightenment delivered his first sermon and
also to the Rishi Valley School, established by the philosopher Jiddu
Krishnamurthy.
The icing on the cake is to watch the pageant of Ganga Aarti on the banks
of the Ganges. It is a breath taking ceremony which never fails to amaze those
witnessing the spectacle.
Back to Delhi
The following afternoon, the travel-weary backpackers leave for New Delhi
and are there by 11pm. They slowly depart with memories etched firmly in their
minds.
“What thrills me
about trains is not their size or their equipment but the fact that they are
moving, that they embody a connection between unseen places,” writes the
talismanic author, Marianne Wiggins.
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