The Golden Triangle Tour

The Golden Triangle Tour A group of Americans alighted from an Air France aircraft at the Indira Gandhi International airport in the wee hours of a chilly Delhi morning. After their passage through the rigmarole of customs check, they were received by officials of the IRCTC. One of the overseas travellers remarked, “When I was a child, I used to read books voraciously. I would pore over passages and obsess over faraway lands. Only when I started travelling did I realize what the quote ‘it’s better to see something once than hear about it a thousand times’ is spot-on.” They were a quartet, consisting of two couples. A prepossessing lady chipped in, “The gladdest moment in human life is a departure into unknown lands.” Her well-built and clean shaven partner added that the quote was by the celebrated trouper Richard Burton. In response, the IRCTC official remarked, “This adventure crisscrossing the Golden Triangle will resonate in your minds forever.” The couples were put up in an upmarket hotel in Lutyens’ Delhi and the following morning they undertook a voyage across the capital city under the cover of salubrious weather conditions. The romance of the city is as old as the classic colossus, The Mahabharata, when the town was known as Indraprastha. This is where the Pandavas are believed to have established their kingdom. Over the centuries, eight more cities mushroomed adjacent to Indraprastha. These were Lal Kot, Siri, Dinpanah, Quila Rai Pithora, Ferozabad, Jahanpanah, Tughlaqabad and Shahjahanabad. Singular among the dynasties that made Delhi their capital were the Tughlaqs, the Khiljis and the Mughals, each adding to make it a melting pot of diverse cultures and heritages. This city is a window to India, which helps to discover an entire new country, brimful of magical stories and wondrous experiences. The Americans were enthralled visiting the Laxmi Narayan Temple, the fabled India Gate, the Parliament House, the Qutab Minar (where they tried to interlace themselves with the imposing and robust Ashokan Pillar), the ruins of Purana Qila, the majestic Humayun's Tomb with its neatly laid gardens, followed by the observatory of Jantar Mantar. The excursionists were amazed at the history of several centuries; they soaked various contours, twists and turns at their resplendent hotel that evening over dinner. The next pit stop, on the following day was the tour of the exalted Masjid-i Jahān-Numā, popularly known as the Jama Masjid of Delhi. This is one of the largest mosques in India. It was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, between 1644 and 1656 at a princely price of 1 million rupees, and was inaugurated by an Imam from Bukhara, present-day Uzbekistan. This was followed by visiting the Red Fort which was the epicentre of Mughal dynasty, the Mutiny and the famous Red Fort trials of INA prisoners; it is from the ramparts of Red Fort that the Prime Minister of India addresses the nation every Independence Day. It is located in the centre of Delhi and houses a number of museums. As shadows lengthened and the weather turned cold the tippers spent time at the tranquil and sublime samadhi of Mahatma Gandhi. The evening was spent watching the son et lumiere at Red Fort before retiring to their opulent hotel. At the crack of dawn, the globetrotters were escorted by the IRTC officials to traverse 309 kms by Shatabdi Express to the Pink City, Jaipur. Jaipur is among the better planned cities of India, located in the semi-desert lands of Rajasthan. The city which was once the capital of the royalty is the capital city of Rajasthan. The very edifice of Jaipur resembles the taste of the Rajputs and the royal families. The tourists began the voyage of Jaipur by visiting the Amber Fort. Amber Fort is situated in Amer, a bijou town with an area of 4km2, at a distance of 11kms from Jaipur. Perched high on a hillock it is the principal tourist attraction in Jaipur. The capital of Rajasthan was coated pink a century ago in honour of a visiting Prince and ever since, it has retained this colour. It was assiduously built by Maharaja Jai Singh, the notable astronomer. This city is around 260 years old. The tourists visited the Jantar Mantar (and recollected the images of the one seen at Delhi) and Hawa Mahal. They were to spend the night at a grandiose hotel in Jaipur, streaming in the statuettes and nuggets of ancient, medieval and modern Indian history alongside the acclaimed architecture. The sightseers travelled by Shatabdi Express covering 241 kms between Jaipur and Agra Fort where the globetrotters were housed at an estimable hotel and were soon to witness glorious history. The name of the city is derived from the village called Sikri. This was the place where Sheikh Salim lived and spread the gospel of Sufism. Emperor Akbar's son Jahangir was born at the village of Sikri in 1569 and the year Akbar began construction of Agra Fort and propagation of the religion and way of life called Din-i- Illahi (which borrowed ideas and thoughts from various faiths like Jainism, Buddhism, Islam, Hinduism and Christianity) to commemorate the Sheikh who had predicted the birth of his son. Following Jahangir's second birthday, Akbar began the construction of a walled city and an imperial palace here. The city came to be known as Fatehpur Sikri or The City of Victory, to commemorate conquest of `Gujarat in 1573. The guests subsequently visited Agra and Taj Mahal. Agra is quintessentially mentioned in the epic Mahabharata, where it was called Agrevaṇa, meaning The Border of the Forest. The peregrination dropped anchor at Taj Mahal, the mausoleum of Shah Jahan's favourite wife - Mumtaz Mahal and one of the New Seven Wonders of the world. Taj Mahal is an ivory-white marble mausoleum on the south bank of the Yamuna River in the Indian city of Agra. The monument was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan. This mausoleum also houses the tomb of Shah Jahan, the builder. “Indeed this is poetry carved in stone,” remarked the tourists as they retired for the day to the confines of their hotel and motored their way back to Delhi the next day to the airport to catch their flight back to Boston, their minds subsumed with exotic Indian history. Travelling – it leaves you speechless, and then turns you into a storyteller. – Ibn Battuta. 11. The Buddhist Circuit Tours Gautama Buddha]who lived between 563 to 480 BC was born Siddhartha to King Suddhodhana and Mayadevi of the Sakya dynasty. He was married to Yasodhara who bore a son named Rahula. Siddhartha faced a severe existential crisis, and eventually donned ochre robes and became a mendicant. Upon attaining enlightenment he became a spiritual master and religious leader on whose teachings Buddhism was established. He was reverentially called The Buddha or The Enlightened One. Today Buddhism is practiced all over South-East Asia and is attracting droves of followers in search of peace. In particular, humans are getting attracted to the celebrated Vipassana breathing and meditation technique which provides succour to the distraught mind. There are some prominent Buddhist spots of paramount significance. These include Lumbini (in present day Nepal) where Buddha was born, Shravasti (in Uttar Pradesh near Gonda) where Buddha is said to have spent the last twenty-four years of his life meditating and cogitating while preaching the tenets of Buddhism, Sarnath near the ancient city of Benaras (also fabled for the Kashi Vishwanath Temple). It was at Sarnath that the Sakya Muni delivered his first sermon upon experiencing the pristine truth. The next place germane to Buddhism is Bodh Gaya where Siddhartha, the Sakhya Prince attained enlightenment. Finally is Kushinagar near Gorakhpur in Eastern Uttar Pradesh, where Buddha attained Mahaparinirvana (cast his mortal self and merged into eternity). A group of Buddhist back-packers arrived from Colombo at the Indira Gandhi International Airport as the sun sank in the Indian capital and the skies turned crimson red. The sightseers were received at the airport and escorted to a prominent hotel in Delhi. At the crack of dawn the following morning they departed from Lutyens’ Delhi by the Swarn Shatabdi Express for Lucknow, the City of Nawabs. Upon arrival at Lucknow the group was suitably snowed by the hospitality as the trippers travelled by a SUV to Shravasti. The tourists alighted from the confines of their SUV and contemplated the place where Buddha was said to have lived during the last twenty-four years of his life. They were subsumed with peace and jollity; all the cobwebs and demons in their mind annihilated. The logistics of the IRCTC were planned to the T. Soon the tourists traversed to Nauthanva, a distance of 220 kms, by the Panvel-Gorakhpur Express. Nauthanva is the gateway to Nepal. After the mandatory customs clearance and police-check, the globetrotters had a meal and visited Sahet and Mahet. Then began the enchanting drive to Lumbini, nestled in the hills; Lumbini was a part of Kapilvastu, the erstwhile kingdom of King Suddhodhana. The guests stayed at a glitzy hotel at Lumbini and walked around for several kilometres paying obeisance at various Buddhist shrines till they reached the spot where Buddha is believed by the devout to have arrived on planet Earth. Here they meditated at the shrine for a reasonable period of time, slipping into sync with the ethereal atmosphere. IRCTC has harnessed skills in managing transportation and other logistics quite efficiently. Next the tourists saw the spectacle of an ancient Ashokan pillar and prayed at the Maya Devi temple. Later they drove down to Kushinagar, spending the night at a modest though well furnished hotel. At the crack of dawn the sightseers proceeded to visit the Rambhar Stupa and Mahaparinirvana temple. To this day (centuries have elapsed) one can experience profound silence and amazing vibrations at these Buddhist shrines. With much reluctance the Sri Lankan Buddhists departed from Kushinagar to Gorakhpur and boarded the Lucknow-Patliputra Express enroute to Patna, the capital city of Bihar, a 255 km journey. Upon their arrival at Patna, after checking-in into a prestigious hotel, the pilgrims headed to Bodhgaya and saw the Mahabodhi Temple built to the east of the sacred tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. The temple is a majestic structure, 17 feet high on a base 5 feet square, and consists of a soaring pyramidal tower surmounted by a stupa. The Vajrasana or Diamond Throne lying between the Bodhi Tree and the temple marks the actual spot where Buddha received illumination. A gilded Buddha smiles upon the visitors from a niche in the wall of the temple, and his footsteps are carved in stone which hold flower offerings from the devout. Astonishing peace pervades the atmosphere as though lending credence to the legend that Buddha attained insight at this very spot. The minds of the pilgrims were filled with serenity and calmness as they travelled by the Lichchavi Express from Patna to Benares covering 227 kms. That evening they checked into the estimable Radisson Hotel in Varanasi. Varanasi is known for its pluralistic culture, famously termed as ‘Ganga-Jamuni Tehzeeb’. The pilgrims paid obeisance at the Kashi Vishwanath temple followed by darshan at the Kaal Bhairav and Sankat Mochan Hanuman temples. Thereafter they travelled to Sarnath where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon. Sarnath is around 10 km from Varanasi and houses numerous Buddhist shrines which include the famous Dhamekh Stupa, the seat of the holy 'Buddha'. They also visited the ruins of Dharmarajika Stupa and Mulagandhakuti Temple, where Lord Buddha is said to have rested and meditated while in Sarnath. Later on the pilgrims were amazed looking at the Ashoka Pillar, built by Emperor Ashoka. The Lion Capital atop this pillar is part of the National Emblem of India and stands apart for its excellent artistry and carvings. A day filled with several peregrinations was rounded off after witnessing the majestic spectacle of the Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat on the banks of the Ganges. After a hectic day, most travellers were weary and hit the sack. Two mettlesome tourists got up early the next morning, as their friends snatched a few extra winks of sleep, and were enthralled by the boat ride on the Ganges. That afternoon the voyagers boarded the Vande Bharat Express, among the fastest trains in India and reached New Delhi by 11pm. The next day the group flew back to Colombo with misty eyes and fond memories. “Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment,” thus spake Lord Buddha. 12. Beyond the Vindhyas by Train It was an icy-cold January in Delhi that year, the year 1983. The citadels of power of the Congress Party had crumbled in undivided Andhra Pradesh and in Karnataka. The talismanic trouper who essayed the roles of several mythological figures, N.T. Rama Rao had assumed office in Andhra Pradesh and the cerebral and suave Rama Krishna Hegde had demolished the grand old party in Karnataka. People of North India woke from slumber to relearn their geography; to realise that south was not merely the land of “Madrasis” or “Idli and dosas”. Southern India is indicative of pristine and unalloyed Indian culture. Panoramic scenery that stuns the beholder, neatly decorated temples, some incredible monuments and a treasure of yogic techniques and Ayurvedic treatments; delicacies to tickle the most finicky taste buds conjure Mandrake like magic and provides the tripper with a robust menu card. A backpacker is left in a trance observing numerous historical ruins and swaying coconut trees. From the silvery backwaters of Alappuzha to the beaches of Kerala; the ancient city of Chennai dotted with several temples, the bustling tech-savvy cities of Hyderabad and Bangalore or the sublime Auroville and the tranquil Samadhi of Shri Aurobindo, the breathtaking coastline of Visakhapatnam and last but not the least, Tirupati, the abode of Lord Venkateswara; South India is a gateway to paradise. Temples There are around 30,000 ancient temples in South India! Verily, it is called the land of temples. Alongside temples are churches, synagogues and mosques. A land that is extremely pluralistic in nature. Studded with exemplar architecture, variety of sculptures and varied inscriptions, temples are the very soul of South India. For any a tipper, a visit to the Murugan temple, Meenakshi temple, Rameswaram, Tirupati, and Vivekananda Rock Temple among others is but natural. Backwaters The shimmering and sunny beaches, golden sands and palm fringed seashores and the backwaters attract globetrotters. Tourists, young and old throng Kovalam, Marina, Baga, Varkala and the backwaters of Alappuzha. Trippers luxuriate and carouse in the houseboats of Kerala. Wildlife Tourists make a beeline to see the majesty of the carnivorous species at the nineteen national parks and the four tiger reserves in South India which are populated with a rich and varied flora and fauna. The must visit parks for any wildlife enthusiast are Periyar, Bandipur, Idukki, and Eravikulam. The IRCTC has niche packages such as the Southern Marvel, Dakshin Bharat Yatra and the Chennai-Kanyakumari-Rameshwaram-Madurai Tour to attract the potential visitor. The Southern Marvel This tour is spread over 6 nights and 7 days and traverses destinations such as Mumbai, Madurai, Rameswaram and Kanyakumari. Pilgrims board train number 11043, and also travel the intermediate leg by train number 22621 from Rameswaram to Kanyakumari. In this enthralling package, the devout pay obeisance at the Meenakshi temple, the Gandhi Memorial, the Thiruparankundram Murugan Temple, the Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal, the Pazhamudircholai and the Alagar Kovil. Dakshin Bharat Yatra The trip spans 13 nights and 14 days. The itinerary also includes a visit to temples of singular importance such as the Ramanatha Swami Temple at Rameswaram, the Meenakshi temple at Madurai, Kovalam beach in Thiruvananthapuram, the Anantha Padmanabha Temple (also in Thiruvananthapuram) and the Ranganathaswamy Temple at Srirangapatna. In a breathtaking swoop the pilgrim criss-crosses three states of South India and is exposed to the heterogeneous culture, cuisine, heritage, architecture and beliefs of this prodigious part of South India. Chennai-Kanyakumari-Rameswaram-Madurai Tour This is an extraordinary tour spread over 4 nights and 5 days. Travellers visit Kumari Amman Temple, Triveni Sangam (the jaw dropping point to witness the confluence of the Bay of Bengal, the Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean where each water body has a distinctive shade of colour, a spectacle nonpareil ), the grandiose Vivekananda Rock Memorial, the Thiruvalluvar Statue, and the Mahatma Gandhi Memorial Mandapam, to name only a few important places. All these tourist and pilgrim packages span the major pilgrimage spots of South India and the devout make a beeline to visit these places of worship. The Lord of Seven Hills The landscape of Rayalaseema, a prominent geographical entity of Andhra Pradesh is truly blessed as it is dotted with numerous temples and spiritual centres which provide succour to the souls, and quenches the spiritual thirst of Masters, seekers, savants and stock individual alike. It is the darshan (a mere glimpse) of Lord Sri Venkateswara Swamy (or Lord Balaji as he is also known) that pilgrims pine for incessantly. The momentary satisfaction derived from the fleeting sighting of the Lord amidst humongous crowds intensifies the longing to see Him again and again. Man meets Divinity, where a thrill passes through the spine, throats get parched and eyes are moist after darshan. The temple town of Tirupati is in Chittoor district of Andhra Pradesh and the shrine is located on the lofty Tirumala Hill, nestled among the Seven Hills in the Eastern Ghats. Pilgrims traverse the journey either by road or literally climbing step by step. The history of Lord Venkateswara’s temple dates back over twelve centuries. The temple is indeed a jewel in the crown of ancient places of worship. It is authentically believed by devotees that the Lord bestows relief to the afflicted, provides an aperture of divine wisdom to the seeker, and bestows prosperity to the materialist. A visit to Tirupati and the surrounding holy shrines which include Kanipakam and Srikalahasti, provide singular spiritual satisfaction to devotees. “Once a year, go someplace you’ve never been before,” says His Holiness Dalai Lama. These are quintessentially significant words to live by. There is always something exciting about exploring a new place every year. It can be a new country, a new city, or can even be an interesting spot near one’s hometown. 13. Discovering Central India by Rail “I like trains. I like their rhythm, and I like the freedom of being suspended between two places, all anxieties of purpose taken care of: for this moment I know where I am going,” writes the prodigious Australian author Anna Funder. Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Khajuraho and Varanasi are cities which capture the ancient, medieval and modern periods of Indian culture, history and ethos. These cities cover the states of political Delhi, mystical Uttar Pradesh, valorous Rajasthan and vibrant Madhya Pradesh. Striking monuments and places of worship dot the landscape which fires the imagination of the backpacker. These populous states are miniature representations of the culture and heritage of India. Thus in order to witness the grandeur and charisma of India, it would be perspicacious for a tripper to hitch on to the bandwagon of the Central India Tour proffered by the IRCTC. The entire region is marked by wildlife sanctuaries, tribal habitats, opulent resorts and ancient pilgrimage sites. Without doubt, the Central India Tour offers to its visitors an assorted platter of attractions. Central India prides itself for housing in its midst the heritage capital of India. The architectural marvels located in the area fascinate Indian and international trippers alike who come in hordes to this part of the country. Central India travel packages enthral and engross sightseers when undertaken in its entirety. Prologue- Stay at Delhi Tourists are received by representatives of the IRCTC at Delhi, either at the airport or the railway station and are then transferred to an estimable hotel for an overnight stay. A sumptuous breakfast is followed by a city tour of New Delhi & Old Delhi. As per mythology the potentates of Hastinapur (now part of Delhi) were the Kaurava and Pandava princes. Thereafter several singular Hindu rulers left their stamp, such as emperors like Chandragupta Maurya, Ashoka, Harsha and those of the Gupta dynasty. There was a change of hands (and fortunes) as the new sovereigns from the Sultanate period took over followed by the Chauhans and then the Mughals until the city capitulated to the Britishers. It was then that Lutyens’ Delhi was established. So the city offers variegated colours and shades of heritage and is a repository of history, knowledge and culture. It is a veritable melting pot of India. Tourists cover the Birla Temple, India Gate, Parliament area, prominent Government buildings, Humayun's Tomb, the Qutab Minar, the Gandhi Memorial at Raj Ghat, the Chandni Chowk market, the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid, to name but a few sites. It is indeed a sojourn into history. The Valour of Rajasthan At the crack of the dawn, the globetrotters head to Delhi Cantonment Station to board the prestigious Shatabdi Express to the Pink City of Jaipur, the capital city of the state of Rajasthan. It evokes a distinct feeling of royalty among the visitors. The city was established in 1727, and has expanded far beyond what is known as the Old City or ‘Pink City’ for its resplendent trademark terracotta pink buildings. At the centre of its stately street grid, which is quintessentially Indian, stands the opulent, colonnaded City Palace complex. Upon arrival guests check in at an upmarket hotel. In the afternoon a meticulously planned sightseeing tour of Jaipur is organised by the officials of the IRCTC. The tour includes spots like City Palace, the Observatory (Jantar Mantar), the Albert Museum, the Hawa Mahal and shopping for the famous jewellery and objects made from camel leather. Jaipur to Agra Breakfast the next morning is a hearty affair. A typical Rajasthani breakfast is quite a regal affair, which every foodie must attempt. Some of the favourites offered by the chef include - Pyaaz Kachori, Bajra Roti and Lahsun Chutney, Kalmi Vada, Moong Dal Pakori, Methi Bajra Puri and Aloo Subzi. Travellers check out and depart for an excursion to Amber Fort (on elephant-back!) and thereafter motor down to Agra in the afternoon. There is a brief stop-over at the deserted capital of the Mughals, Fatehpur Sikri. Red sandstone buildings cluster at its centre. The Buland Darwaza is the entrance to the Jama Masjid mosque. In the vicinity is the marble tomb of Salim Chishti. The Diwan-E-Khas hall has exquisitely embellished central pillar. Jodha Bai’s Palace is an amalgam of Hindu and Mughal styles, next to the five-storeyed Panch Mahal which overlooks the site. Stay at Agra Breakfast at an upmarket hotel is followed by a leisurely walk in the market area where artefacts (exuding a magnetic charm of their own) are available. Despite having had a lip- smacking breakfast, several tourist gorge on golgappas. Thereafter the day is spent visiting the Agra Fort and the Sikandra Tomb. In the evening, one explores the prepossessing Taj Mahal. Agra to Khajuraho The trippers next day board the much acclaimed Shatabdi Express from Agra to Jhansi and thereafter travel by road to Khajuraho. The Khajuraho group of monuments is a genus of Hindu and Jain temples in the Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh, about 175 kilometres southeast of Jhansi. These monuments have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temples are famous for their nagara-style architectural symbolism and their erotic sculpture. It is sheer delight to marvel at the structures – from the sensual and erotic to the sublime. The evening is spent watching the spectacular son- et-lumière, which traces the history and brings to life scintillating nuggets of the local lore. Ganga Beckons After chilling out the night at Khajuraho, the following morning guests are taken to the Ken River to watch the cascading waterfalls and to have a look at the ancient volcanic rocks. Thereafter, the sightseers board a flight to Varanasi. Varanasi is an ancient city in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, dating as far back as the 11th century B.C. and is considered the spiritual capital of India. The city draws Hindu pilgrims who bathe in the sacred waters of the Ganges and also perform the last rites on the banks of the river. Along the city's winding streets are some 2,000 temples, including the iconic Kashi Vishwanath, the ‘Golden Temple’ dedicated to Lord Shiva. Visitors are taken to Sarnath where Gautama Buddha, upon attaining enlightenment delivered his first sermon and also to the Rishi Valley School, established by the philosopher Jiddu Krishnamurthy. The icing on the cake is to watch the pageant of Ganga Aarti on the banks of the Ganges. It is a breath taking ceremony which never fails to amaze those witnessing the spectacle. Back to Delhi The following afternoon, the travel-weary backpackers leave for New Delhi and are there by 11pm. They slowly depart with memories etched firmly in their minds. “What thrills me about trains is not their size or their equipment but the fact that they are moving, that they embody a connection between unseen places,” writes the talismanic author, Marianne Wiggins. 14. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway “The most important reason for going from one place to another is to see what’s in between, and they took great pleasure in doing just that,” are singular emotive words of the talismanic author Norton Juster. Do we recall the trouper Rajesh Khanna -without doubt the first superstar of Bollywood- crooning ‘Mere Sapno Ki Rani’ for the blockbuster film Aradhana? How many people are aware that the graphic sequence which left an indelible impression on cinema goers was canned on the renowned Darjeeling Hill Railway? Rajesh Khanna motoring on a jeep and the celebrated actress Sharmila Tagore reading a book on the Toy Train. Darjeeling is a quintessential hill station, nestled neatly in the eastern state of West Bengal. This quaint town perched at the foothills of Himalayas was once a protuberant summer resort for the British Raj elite. To this day the town remains the terminus of the much vaunted narrow gauge Darjeeling Himalayan Railway which was commissioned in the year 1881. Darjeeling is fabled for the distinctive black tea grown on humungous plantations which populate the landscape besides the sylvan surrounding slopes. The cyclorama of the town is the grandiose and gargantuan Mt. Kanchenjunga. ‘Kanchenjunga’ the alcoholic drink triggers the minds of a host of drinkers. But Kanchenjunga, the pristine, lofty and imposing mountain is one of the highest peaks in the world which dwarfs the remaining, standing tall at 8,586metres. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR), laid on a serpentine track, negotiating bends and sharp curves has earned the moniker ‘Toy Train’. It is a 610 mm narrow-gauge railway which links the 88 kms between the bustling towns of Siliguri and Darjeeling. This route is operated by the Indian Railways, and the exotic ladder commences the enthralling voyage at 100 m at Siliguri and rises to about 2,200 m at Darjeeling. The highest point of preferment is at Ghoom station located at 2,300 m. The town of Siliguri, where the peregrination of this beguiling railway route commences got connected with Kolkata (once upon a time Calcutta)) through the railway network way back in 1878, while the additional journey to Darjeeling required the deployment of tongas (horse-driven carts) besides the dust track. Based on the erudite recommendations of a high –powered committee appointed by Sir Ashley Eden, a British diplomat (after whom the celebrated Eden Gardens derives its name) work on the route began in the year 1879 and was completed by July 1881. The railway line became more manoeuvrable with the construction of four loops and zig-zags that made the ascent over the steep gradient more gradual. Commercially, the DHR, by 1909–1910, was a prodigious success as it began ferrying 1,74,000 passengers and 47,000 tons of freight traffic annually. Humans are a mere cipher in this vast cosmos and cannot combat nature. In 1897 the fury of nature impacted the railway system following a cataclysmic earthquake and left the railway line crippled. But soon DHR bounced back. The engineers of the railway constructed the Batasia Loop in 1919, which eased the ascent from Darjeeling. The DHR however faced competition from buses operating on the Hill Cart Road which took a shorter time than the railway to reach Darjeeling. The year was 1934 and the epicentre Pusa in Bihar, a calamitous earthquake struck vast plains of Eastern and North Eastern India. Mahatma Gandhi visited the state of Bihar and was to write that the Bihar earthquake was ‘providential retribution for India's failure to eradicate untouchability’. Several buildings in Darjeeling besides the railway system were destroyed. It is noteworthy to mention that this robust railway system that survived two major earthquakes played a pivotal role in organising supplies to the camps established around Ghoom and Darjeeling during the Second World War A majority of the trains which scorch the track are still powered by steam engines; though visages of modernisation have wormed their way as an occasional diesel engine is used to chug the Darjeeling Mail train. The railway is noteworthy for its signage located at key vantage points, such as Agony Point and Sensation Corner (a reminder of the era gone by). Yet another characteristic feature is the spirals on steep hills which provide breathtaking views of the valleys below. In 1951, the railway was acquired by the Government of India and eventually went on to become part of the North East Frontier Railway zone in 1952. In 1962, the railway was realigned at Siliguri and extended by nearly six kilometres to New Jalpaiguri (NJP) to cross the newly carved broad-gauge line. Unfortunately the railway line ceased operations for almost eighteen months during the Gorkhaland hostilities in the years1988 and 1989. In 1999, the Darjeeling line was recognized by UNESCO and placed on the World Heritage List with a caveat that steamed-hauled locomotives would continue to be used along the route. Despite the chequered history the DHR line has withstood vicissitudes in a brawny manner and is a bulbous tourist attraction. People continue to flock to travel by this train. “Our life is a constant journey, from birth to death. The landscape changes, the people change, our needs change, but the train keeps moving. Life is the train, not the station.” writes the inspirational Paulo Coelho. 15. Kalka- Simla, an Exotic Rail Journey “I listened, motionless and still, and as I mounted up the hill, the music in my heart I heard, long after it was heard no more,” captivating lines by the iconic poet William Wordsworth and a fitting description of the wondrous train journey from Kalka to Simla. Indian Railways proudly proclaim that it transports ‘an Australia’ everyday on its wheels, no mean feat! However these days airlines and roadways have built robust infrastructures and provide product, price, place and promotion (the 4 Ps of marketing), luring travellers away from the sedate pace of rail travel. Nevertheless, the narrative to unearth landscapes as a train motors through the serpentine bends on some steep, fascinating and enthralling routes in our vast country remains the domain and bulwark of the Indian Railways. A backpacker uncovers diverse landscapes while undertaking a rail journey. Steep mountain slopes, narrow valleys, dense jungles and wide seas are just some of the jewels waiting to be discovered as one chugs along the rail routes. The Gen X or Y perhaps are perhaps unaware of two momentous events which transpired at Simla. Aeons ago in the summer of 1945, it was at Simla that Lord Wavell, the Viceroy of India discussed the Cabinet Mission plan with various stake holders who were at the forefront of India’s struggle. Exactly 27 years later, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India and President Zulfikar Ali Bhutto of Pakistan inked the Simla pact on 2 July 1972, paving the way to end hostilities between the two warring and sparring nations. India had earlier vanquished Pakistan in December 1971 in a war that resulted in the creation of the new nation state of Bangladesh. This Queen of Hills served as the Summer Capital when Indians were the subjects of the British monarchy and was the seat of the estimable Railway Board. Today it houses the academy for the probationers of the Indian Audit and Accounts Service. A vacationer who cherishes a journey through picturesque valleys, up steep pathways and through foggy meadows, would certainly not be disappointed as he or she travels in the narrow gauge train on the Shivaliks from Kalka to Simla. This stretch from Kalka to Simla along with the little toy train, a legacy bequeathed by the British, has been declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. The train journey from Kalka to India’s erstwhile summer capital Simla at the crack of dawn is quintessential rail-travel on the hills of India. The erstwhile quaint town is today a hustling and bustling tourist spot, located in the north-western ranges of the Himalayas at an altitude of 2,213m. The toy train weaves its journey from Kalka, a town in its neighbouring state, Haryana and terminates at the enchanting Simla. The Kalka – Simla rail line is a narrow gauge railway which traverses a distance of 96km. This 96-km long railway track was constructed over 889 short to long bridges and passes through 102 tunnels in the foothills of the Himalayas; the longest tunnel is located at Barog. A Twist in the Tale – Barog Tunnel On this enchanting trip famished tourists break journey to savour delicious parathas and fried eggs, cutlets and piping hot tea or coffee in a restaurant at Barog. There is mystique and majesty attached to the place. Cool breeze wafts in and one can hear the sounds of chirping birds and a rivulet as the Sun plays hide and seek. The Barog Tunnel passes through the fissured sandstone and has a tragic tale associated with from during its construction. Colonel Barog, who was supervising the construction of Tunnel No. 33 committed the cardinal mistake of boring the tunnel from both (opposite) ends of the mountain, a strategy adopted to expedite construction. The crew was divided into two halves, and started the digging and blasting work for the tunnel from the opposite ends. The Colonel instructed the crew members to bore the tunnel and according to his calculations both the ends would intersect at the centre. He thereby envisioned a single tunnel in the amphitheatre of his mind. The workers kept on boring from either end, but did not meet even after crossing the centre of the mountain. After some time, the workers became restless and questioned the decisions taken by Colonel Barog. The Colonel too realized that on account of his miscalculations, the alignment of the tunnels had gone awry and the two ends of the tunnel did not meet. His miseries were compounded as the British government decided to levy a hefty fine on the Colonel for profligacy of public property and wealth. It was a double whammy for Colonel Barog as the Government took umbrage and the staff became hostile. In sheer despondency Colonel Barog snuffed his life through the barrel of his gun. On this picturesque path ply several trains including the Kalka-Simla Express, Himalayan Queen, and Shivalik Queen Express. The journey is enduringly enchanting at a slow pace as the train ascends the slope rhythmically through stations such as Dharampur, Solan, Kandaghat, Tara Devi, Barog, Salogra, Totu, and Summerhill to reach the summer capital. The journey, which snakes its way through imposing mountains leaves an indelible impression on the minds of the pilgrim. Silken and pristine mountains, breathtaking lakes, salubrious climate, and alluring greenery –Simla offers on the platter all that a tourist pines for. The breathtaking beauty of the city and the places in the vicinity never cease to leave the traveller spellbound. There is this magical quality in air which endears Simla to the visitor compelling them to visit time and again. There are around eighteen tourist spots which are habitually visited by sightseers. The more celebrated among them are the Summer Hills, the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies, Annandale, Jakhoo Hill and Temple, Tara Devi Temple, Chail (the Palace of Maharaja of Patiala), Gaiety Theatre and the Viceregal Lodge. Summer or winter, a stroll along Mall Road with a stop by for a hot cup of coffee is a must do. Come winter and Kufri tops the list of must-visits. Though tourists throng the Queen of Hills by road, rail and by air, the journey by rail through the thick forest cover and clouds floating through the coaches has an old world charm which leaves an ineffaceable impression on the febrile mind of the tipper. Thus seize every opportunity to visit Simla by rail for the amazing magical quality attached with the rail journey. “Trains are wonderful.... To travel by train is to see nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact, to see life.”- Agatha Christie