Story of a Kaanadiga who brought Udupi to Delhi. ToI, Nov, 2025

Story of a Kaanadiga who brought Udupi to Delhi. ToI, Nov, 2025 Farewell to Mr Madras Hotel: The Man Who Brought Dosa and Idli MagicTC to Connaught Place New Delhi – Once Priyavadan Rao left Connaught Place, he began avoiding going there. But some time ago, he told his son that he wanted to visit Connaught Place once more and see the Madras Hotel building, even if from afar. His wish was fulfilled, and shortly after, he fell seriously ill. Rao sahab passed away on Sunday morning. He was 92 years old. Rao sahab introduced Delhi to delicious dosa, idli, vada, and other South Indian dishes. In 1935, his father K. Subba Rao opened the Madras Hotel in P Block of Connaught Place – that is, 90 years ago. At that time, Connaught Place had just been built, and many shops were yet to open. Subba Rao named the restaurant “Madras Hotel” because back then, Delhiites called every South Indian a Madrasi. Rao sahab himself was from Udupi in Karnataka. But after K. Subba Rao’s sudden death in 1955, the responsibility of managing and advancing the Madras Hotel fell on his son Priyavadan Rao. Earlier, he would come for just two to four hours a day; now, he began spending the entire day at the hotel. As soon as he took over, he introduced a rule: if a customer repeatedly asks for more potato masala or sambar with their dosa, fulfill it happily. This step clicked instantly. After that, the flavors of Madras Hotel became a sensation. Visiting it became mandatory for everyone coming to Connaught Place. Even today, you’ll find many people who will tell you, “We used to drink five bowls of sambar, and the waiters would keep smiling.” The piping-hot sambar was so fiery it would burn the tongue, but it delighted the heart. The Madras Hotel was on the first floor of P Block in Connaught Place. It’s worth noting that P Block and Regal Block are architecturally different from the rest of Connaught Place. They were designed by Walter George, while the architect for the rest of Connaught Place was Robert Tor Russell. At the spot where the stairs to Madras Hotel began, there was a tiny photo studio. Outside it was written: “The World’s Smallest Photo Studio.” Under Rao sahab’s patronage, Madras Hotel shone until 2000. Delhi was devoted to its flavors. From morning till night, people satisfied their cravings with giant crispy dosas, idlis, piping-hot vadas, coconut chutney, and more. Thousands of dosas were consumed daily. And the Madras Hotel thali! It included two vegetables, rasam, curd, papad, pickle, and so on. Its fans would queue up from 12 to 3 pm to eat. In 1969, the DTC bus terminal at Shivaji Stadium was even named “Madras Hotel Terminal.” You can imagine what a massive brand Madras Hotel had become. Though the name was changed to Shivaji Stadium in 1982. Rao sahab used to say that in his kitchen, chef roles were divided: the dosa chef would make only dosas. Another would prepare only idlis and vadas. All chefs were Kannada-speaking and from Udupi. There was no place for non-vegetarian dishes at Madras Hotel. Rao sahab was never willing to compromise on this. He would go table to table asking customers, “Is the taste alright?” Former Delhi Ranji Trophy captain Venkat Sundaram says, “Rao sahab also provided financial help to the Madras Cricket Club in the capital.” Players coming from hockey matches at Shivaji Stadium got discounts at Madras Hotel. He had a deep interest in the world of sports. Then came the ill-fated year of 2005. The owner of the space where Madras Hotel operated demanded it back from Rao sahab. He had no choice but to let the Madras Hotel close. After running for seventy years, the lock was finally put on Madras Hotel. Though the Madras Hotel shut down, memories of its flavours remain alive forever in Delhi’s hearts and minds. “ I have fond memories of enjoying my Dosa and South Indian Thaali from the Madras Hotel from the early 1970s to 2000. It was such a pocket friendly place,” recalls author and Vaastu expert Dr. J.P. Sharma ‘Trikha’. People say that after the Madras Hotel closed, the fortunes of long-standing South Indian eateries at Andhra Bhawan’s canteen and Jantar Mantar soared. Times of India November 10, 2025